The Skin Studio New Orleans

Oops, I'm Peeling!

2011-11-18T10:28:00.000-08:00

Successful acne-clearning and anti-aging routines revolve around exfoliants, as we've discussed in previous posts here, here, and here. For the most part, exfoliating treatments are super predictable, often down to the day and time of day that you are likely to start peeling. But what happens when your skin doesn't stick to a schedule? And what can you do to minimize peeling when you weren't expecting it?

Peeling on purpose, but you get the picture

Lunchtime peels are not intended to produce visible peeling. The acids are light enough to break apart only the most superficial dead skin cells, allowing them to release cell by cell, without perceptible peeling. Occasionally lunchtime peels (including microdermabrasion and dermaplaning) may produce some unexpected peeling, especially in the following cases:

Dry weather
Increased absorption from pretreatment
Vigorous exfoliation after treatment

Medium peels are designed to slough off the whole top layer of the skin, while sparing the pink, juicy "live" skin underneath. The exfoliated skin generally peels in small, flaky bits which are easily removed with gentle cleansing and a washcloth. With medium peels, a few unusual responses sometimes observed are:

Darkening of the skin, especially over areas of hyperpigmentation
Starting to peel early, or continuing to peel beyond the usual five days

Intensive and double peels are intended to exfoliate the entire top layer of the skin, while allowing some acid to stimulate collagen production in the underlying dermis. Skin is expected to darken, harden, and peel in large sheets, like a sun or wind burn would(although blistering, scabbing, and oozing, which would indicate a medical-strength peel, are not expected). As with medium peels, skin sometimes peels outside of the usual range of five to seven days, which may be inconvenient for work or social reasons.

In any of these cases, it's a great idea to contact your esthetician if you think you may be experiencing something out of the ordinary. Generally, as long as you are at least two days post-treatment, it is safe to use an ointment. We like Vivant's Recovery Ointment, available at the Skin Studio*, which blends aloe vera juice with the standard occlusive petrolatum. Other good options are Aquaphor and Elizabeth Arden's Eight Hour Cream (the original balm formula, not one of the spinoff cremes). When you find yourself peeling unexpectedly, avoid scrubbing with all your might! Scrubbing at this juncture will leave you with raw, red skin that is almost impossible to conceal. Instead, slather on one of these occlusive preparations. You are essentially glueing down the peely skin. Go as long as you can in the day with just balm on your skin before you need to apply makeup. Then, tissue down the occlusive ointment to the bare minimum needed to keep the peely skin glued down, and apply makeup with a minimum of friction (this is not the time to perfect your blending technique). If prior to applying makeup, the peely skin is reeealy obvious under the ointment, then you have my permission to wipe your face gently, one time, with a warm washcloth, but proceed with caution - peely skin is always easier to cover than raw skin!

Hopefully these instructions will help in the event that you experience "bonus peeling." Do you have any post-peel photos? Share a link in the comments section below!

*This ointment is available in our online store to existing studio clients when logged in.

Hormonal Acne: Myth vs Fact

2011-11-13T12:43:00.000-08:00

I am surprised how often I am asked, "does your studio help people with hormonal acne?" And my answer is a resounding "Yes!"

The question reflects a widely-held but scientifically inaccurate assumption that somehow "hormonal acne" is different, and that there is nothing topical or nutritional that can be done to clear it up.

In reality, all acne is influenced by hormones. Acne is the proliferation of comedones (blackheads or whiteheads) leading to pustules, papules, and sometimes cysts or nodules. Comedone formation is subject to many factors, among them sebum thickness. A predominance of androgens or male hormones thickens the sebum, while lower proportions of those hormones result in less viscous sebum. For some women who are both struggling with acne and who wish to be on oral contraceptives, simply using a pill that is higher in estrogen and lower in androgens* can go a long way towards clear skin. Likewise, certain hormonal birth control, especially those advertised as being low in estrogen**, can be responsible for thickening sebum enough to cause a problem for women who may not otherwise consider themselves acne-prone. If acne breakouts begin while taking these hormonal contraceptives, in my opinion it's worth a phone call to the prescriber to find out if there might be a more suitable choice of hormonal contraceptive.

Despite what you may have heard about "hormonal acne," though, hormones are not the only factor. Furthermore, I often see clients who do not want to or cannot take hormonal medications for a variety of personal and medical reasons, and clients for whom the main androgenic hormones acting on the thickness of their sebum are likely to be stress hormones like adrenaline and cortisol. Unfortunately, I have observed instances in which dermatologists and gynecologists lump these people into a "hormonal acne" header and tell them they have to take birth control pills if they want their acne to clear up. I know from experience that this does not have to be true, so I think it's important to shrug off the notion of hormonal acne and work on the causes of acne that we can control. While hormones exert a very important influence on the thickness of the sebum, hormone levels are never the whole store behind an individual's acne. A comedone forms in a pore when there is a combination of factors present, of which thickened sebum is only one. The other factors in the development of a comedone (and progression from comedone to pustule or cyst) are:

the rate at which stratum corneum (dead skin cell layer) cells detach and shed off the skin surface as a whole and the pore lining in particular (determined by genetic and nutritional factors but primarily topical skincare routine)
the presence of acne-causing bacteria (which can sometimes proliferate excessively as a result of overscrubbing)
the overall health of the skin (which can be compromised by exposure to comedogenic substances, UV light, oxidation from sources like cigarette smoke and pollution, and nutritional factors)

The reason that we don't treat "hormonal acne" differently from any other acne at the Skin Studio is that for our purposes, they aren't different! Our treatment approach does include some minor nutritional adjustments, but is primarily topical, and it's been our observation that even skin that is breaking out under an onslaught of hormonal aggrivators (for example, when corticosteroids have been prescribed after an injury or for an episode of a chronic illness) can remain clear with pro exfoliating treatments and skincare.

*Some examples of birth control pills in this category are Yaz and Yasmin, Ortho TriCyclen, Diane35, and Desogen (Apri).
**These include the Nuva Ring, DepoProvera, Loestrin, and Estrostep FE.

The Skin Studio Now Offering Luxury Body Treatments!

2011-11-10T15:35:00.001-08:00

Services Include Mineral Wraps, Scrubs, Cellulite Treatments and Therapeutic Massage

The Skin Studio, located at 725 Joseph St at the corner of Magazine and Joseph in uptown New Orleans, is proud to announce the expansion of its body services menu. The same team of experts you have trusted to give you smooth, glowing skin now brings you deluxe spa body treatments in our beautiful Uptown loft. In the serenity of our indoor garden, you or a loved one can experience blissful relaxation while receiving New Orleans’ most customized care.

Having offered traditional and classic massage therapy in the past, the Skin Studio now offers a range of indulgent body treatments, such as the Body Glow with Relaxation Massage. With this treatment, clients choose one of three professionally formulated scrubs for gentle exfoliation, stimulation and custom results: the Tumeric Neem Glow (for brightening and clarifying); the Lavender Sugar Glow (for deluxe hydration); or the Coffee Salt Body Polish (for brightening and slimming). The treatment includes up to a full hour of relaxing therapeutic massage.

Results-oriented treatments include the exclusive Cellulite Buster with Ultrasonic and Infrared therapy, which targets problem areas with a special kneading massage technique and a cellulite-busting formulation of powerful active ingredients (including caffeine, guarana, carnatine and amino acids). These ingredients penetrate deep into the skin using ultrasonic technology, firming skin and reducing the appearance of cellulite; in addition, clients enjoy a relaxing scalp massage during infrared light therapy.

The Skin Studio’s licensed massage therapists are trained in a wide range of modalities, which are used in combination to best address client needs during each session. Massages can be upgraded to include deep tissue and hot stone therapy.

The Skin Studio’s services also include clinical skincare and cosmeceutical treatments, facials, waxing, lash and brow tinting, and more. For more information, or to schedule an appointment, please call or text 504-717-4466, or email reservations@skinstudioneworleans.com.

The Mother-in-law Request: Free Esthetician Advice?

2011-09-09T19:41:00.000-07:00

On a recent visit to my in-laws, my husband's mom had series of anti-aging questions which I think are best answered together. She asked:

"I have hereditary dark spots on my face. My dermatologist is willing to freeze them off when I go in for my cancer screenings, so I have had many of them on my cheeks and the sides of my face removed this way. I am nervous about asking him to remove one that is located on my upper lip because it will look like like I have a sore there. Is there any other option? Also, I have some broken capillaries. Could he do those with a laser, and if so, do you think he could get the dark spot with the laser, and would that prevent it getting scabby?"

I think this is a great line of questioning because it reflects the concerns many women have about the best approach for the health and beauty of their skin!

I told my mother-in-law that she's thinking along the right lines by endeavoring to consolidate treatments and minimize downtime. Unfortunately, like the experience she has had with liquid nitrogen, the mechanism by which lasers lighten dark spots always results in the spot darkening, scabbing, and falling off (just like laser hair and tattoo removal, where the pigment molecules are broken apart by the therapeutic light, and must be expelled or reabsorbed), so a laser would not be the best solution to solving the pigment problem without scabbing.

Since my mother-in-law is using a retinoid but not a skin lightener, I recommended that she incorporate Bleaching Cream, from the Skin Studio. It is a blend of the active retinoid retinyl propionate and 2% hydroquinone, plus citric and kojic acids to provide additional brightening benefit, and aloe to prevent irritation from the active ingredients. Once skin is preconditioned with a retinoid/lightener/hydroxy acid regimen, great results are possible from peels. Preconditioned skin will peel and heal even better, with rapid healing time and more complete spot removal.

As for the broken capillaries, lasers can be a great option, but treatments come at a risk of burns or scars. The risk is minimized by having any treatment performed by someone who has substantial hours logged on the device they are using. In addition to traditional laser light (in which the light is collimated or focused into one tiny laser point), there are also intense pulsed light treatments, including the noninvasive Radiancy Facial at the Skin Studio, which offer a very low-risk means of reducing redness and homogenizing pigment, especially when you can schedule treatments twice a week for five weeks.

Finally, as mentioned in the previous post, peptide technology can be a great adjunct to traditional means of lightening pigmentation, and can also stimulate skin repair during traditional bleaching treatments.

Lighten Up! An Up-to-the-Minute Primer on Managing Hyperpigmentation

2011-08-22T13:42:00.000-07:00

Hyperpigmentation is usually caused by a combination of hormones and sun exposure, but can also be a result of certain types of trauma to the skin, including acne breakouts after healing. Any of these factors can cause the skin to overproduce melanin (skin pigment) in an effort to protect the skin from further damage. If you’re interested in speeding up the rate that your skin pigmentation fades, it’s first helpful to understand the three different types of skin-lightening ingredients--this will help you make a decision about which type or types of lighteners will work best with your skin pigmentation and general health.

The first type of lightener is hydroquinone-based. Hydroquinone-based lighteners also include certain ingredients that are chemically analogous to hydroquinone, such as arbutin (sourced from uva ursi, or bearberry) and kojic acid (a fermentation byproduct of certain mushrooms). All of these ingredients have the same mechanism of action on the cellular level. Hydroquinone and its analogs are the same shape of molecule as an amino acid called tyrosine, which is processed by an enzyme called tyrosinase. Tyrosine is part of any normal diet, and is found in foods like soy protein, seaweed, and egg whites, to name a few. When tyrosinase breaks down tyrosine, the body uses tyrosine to make melanin, or skin pigment. By fitting into tyrosine receptors, hydroquinone functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor, preventing the body from using tyrosine to make melanin, and effectively shutting down the pigment factories found within the skin’s basal layer.

This image shows a protein fitting into a receptor, much as tyrosine fits into its receptor. Notice how the receptor releases a chemical when the protein locks into place: by replacing tyrosine with hydroquinone, we prohibit the receptor from releasing melanin. This receptor blockage is currently the only step of melanin production for which we have found such an effective process of inhibition.

The second type of lightener is exfoliant-based. Exfoliant-based lightening only works if A) you have first removed whatever is causing your excess pigmentation (for example, if you are no longer experiencing hormone fluctuation, UV-induced cellular mutations, or acne or other inflammatory skin conditions that may have been contributing to the production of excess pigment); or B) you have already shut down your pigment factories through the use of hydroquinone or another tyrosinase inhibitor. The reason this prerequisite is necessary is because exfoliants’ main action is to break down skin cells, thereby hastening the production of healthy new cells. When the skin cell turnover is accelerated through exfoliation without the interference of excess pigment-causing factors, the resulting cells contain only the normal amount of pigment: fresh, new skin!

[NB: While the primary benefit of retinoids to the skin is NOT their exfoliant properties, for the purpose of this article, you should understand retinoids to be included in the exfoliant category as supporters of skin lightening.]

Finally, there is also a third type of lightener. Peptide-based lighteners rely on the interaction of peptides, which are small chains of amino acids (like proteins), with cells in the skin’s deep tissue layers. Several peptides that have only recently been synthesized in labs have been shown to have remarkable skin lightening properties. In particular, palmitoyl oligopeptide-68 seems to derive its efficacy from its ability to both prevent the synthesis of melanin and stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, which aid in cell repair and reduce inflammation. One of palmitoyl oligopeptide-68’s most important functions is to mimic TGF-Beta (Transforming Growth Factor Beta) proteins. These proteins are vital to cell health throughout the body, as they are responsible for regulating crucial cell activities (like telling cells when to die so that they don’t become cancerous)! This is where the mad science comes in: though scientists know TGF-Beta’s basic functions, they haven’t yet discovered all of its cellular pathways. So palmitoyl oligopeptide-68 was successfully synthesized to mimic TGF-Beta, but we don’t know exactly how it works!

Regardless of the mystery, the benefits offered by a skin lightener that can both inhibit tyrosinase, as hydroquinone-based lighteners do, and stimulate cell turnover, as exfoliant-based lighteners do, cannot be denied. By using this dual-function approach to skin lightening, we can attain results previously only available through the use of both a hydroquinone and an exfoliant-based lightener, with less irritation and within a much shorter time period. Peptide-based lighteners are also a great solution for those who cannot use hydroquinone-based lighteners because of pregnancy or nursing concerns. Certain persistent pigmentation will still require the use of hydroquinone; likewise, on some skin, embedded pigmentation will linger unless treated with alpha hydroxy acids, usually in the form of peels. Nonetheless, we consider this an incredible new low-impact addition to our skin-lightening arsenal, and one that many clients, especially those who haven’t tolerated other lighteners in the past, may wish to explore.

Don't forget to tell us which lightener you'd like to try in the comments for a chance to win a bottle! Winners will be notified by email on Friday, August 26, 2011.

As always, you can text or call the Skin Studio with any questions or concerns at 504-717-4466; or, click here to schedule your next appointment!

Microdermabrasion Infusion Facial, Revisited

2011-01-21T05:46:00.000-08:00

(Click here for an appointment)!

This morning I thought I would take a few minutes to reflect on my most popular skincare treatment, and why I think it's one of the best ways to whip your skin into shape!

For those of you who haven't been to the studio, the Microdermabrasion Infusion Facial includes:

Three-step deep cleanse
Comprehensive skin analysis
Microdermabrasion
Deep pore extractions
Germicidal high frequency
LED phototherapy
Custom mask treatment
Glycolic arm and hand treatment
Infusion of cosmeceuticals
Microcurrent facelift
Active serum, hydration and SPF

Since my clients' skin concerns range from acne to pigmentation, wrinkles, texture concerns, redness and sensitivity, it's important that every treatment is customized, and that's exactly what happens in the Microdermabrasion Infusion Facial.

Most of us are somewhat underexfoliated, and in addition to the fibroblast-stimulating and pore-minimizing benefits of microdermabrasion, it's also the best and fastest way I know to ensure maximum absorption of the cosmeceutical ingredients selected for each skin type. Improved absorption continues for weeks after treatment, providing maximum results from home care with active antioxidants, retinoids, lighteners, peptides, growth factors, and humectants.

The great thing about the Microdermabrasion Infusion Facial is that the steps performed after the microdermabrasion are made all the more potent. Red/infrared combination LED treatment light penetrates deeper into the dermis to promote collagen and extracellular matrix production; ultrasonic and microcurrent infusion techniques reach more living cells to improve firmness and brightness, and serums absorb and are processed in layers of the skin that can't be reached without the microdermabrasion.

Best of all, the Microdermabrasion Infusion Facial is a true no-downtime treatment. While some skin types experience pink skin lasting 2-4 hours after the treatment, it can almost always be performed on the morning of a big event. After 4 hours makeup can be worn (see the Skin Studio's favorite makeup artists at Pixie), and will look better than ever over a fresh palette of refined skin and custom cosmeceutical actives.

The fact that it's a relaxing, brightening way to spend 75 minutes is the icing on the cake!

Click here to schedule your treatment!

2010-07-04T16:37:00.001-07:00

So excited to go to work in the beautiful new studio tomorrow morning!

Post Peel: What Not To Do

2010-05-03T05:17:00.000-07:00

At the Skin Studio, each peel, and the post-care regimen that goes with it, is customized. The post-care strategies that I recommend do depend on the skin's indications and the peel performed. There are still a few common tempting but counterproductive home remedies that may occur to someone experiencing the rough scaly skin right after a peel... here are a few of the culprits, and the reasons why they won't help your skin after a peel (and may even compromise the results you are trying to achieve).

As you read, keep in mind that the process of chemical peeling, whether a light single-acid lunchtime peel, or a blended-acid intensive peel, is intended to break apart the bonds between the dead, flattened cells in the Stratum corneum. Bonds broken, the cells can shed rapidly, which in turn stimulates the proliferation of new, healthier cells which are pushed up from the Stratum basale, or basal layer. During that shedding process, the remaining Stratum corneum cells (located immediately under the layer affected by the peel) become the new surface layer, complete with a fresh new protective acid mantle.

The specific peeling solution and application technique all impact how many layers of corneocytes (flattened Stratum corneum cells) are denatured. The more intense the peel, the more layers are impacted, the more visible shedding and peeling, the more fresh new skin is exposed, the more important it is to follow your post-care regimen precisely.

Water

While it seems like it would be refreshing, relieve the tightness, and hydrate the skin, using water (*any temperature) topically on your skin after a peel is a no-no. Water applied topically does not have the power to hydrate skin cells. To the contrary, applying water dilutes and even rinses away the protective lipids and acid mantle that your skin (especially post-peel) is struggling to maintain. The result is increased evaporation of the skin's precious moisture stores--a process also know as Transepidermal Water Loss. Another reason to avoid water immediately post-peel is that by temporarily softening and swelling the dead cells, it may encourage those cells to release prematurely from the healthy skin below. In addition to the risk of scarring, this means that the new skin is exposed before it is ready to the environment and all its aggressors. Skin that is peeled back prematurely after a chemical peel usually appears red and raw, sometimes oozy, and will often display rashy or pimple-like irregularities, often defeating the purpose of using a chemical peel to uncover fresh healthy skin.

Tea bags, cucumbers, aloe gel

See: Water. Again, as soothing as certain non-skincare items may seem, with a chemical peel we are trying to achieve a nice, even leveling of the Stratum corneum, and disrupting the skin's protective mantle just as it is forming runs contrary to that goal.

Coconut, Vitamin E, and other single-ingredient oil products
I usually hear this one from my fellow health-conscious individuals. Like water, while many of these healthy oils will do wonders for skin (and epithelial tissue in general) when taken internally, the benefit simply does not extend to topical application. The reason for this is that single-ingredient oils simply do not have the chemical profile to hydrate the skin in any way. Effective moisturizers are a blend of emollients and humectants. While certain oils make great emollients that are capable of softening, occluding, and lubricating skin, the absence of humectants--ingredients that actually bind moisture and trap it in skin tissues--means your skin will actually feel drier and tighter once your layer of oil has worn off.

Active topicals

After the blowtorch-like heat of a chemical peel, most of my clients are ready and willing to follow my instructions regarding discontinuing their active topicals such as retinoids, hydroxy acids, vitamin C and other antioxidants, lighteners, and botanical correctives. Waiting the prescribed time period before resuming these important components of the home care routine ensures that skin won't be shocked into a painful, itchy histamine response. Need I say more?

Chemical peeling is the best and least invasive way to brighten skin, soften fine lines, diminish discoloration, even texture, clear impacted pores, and enhance effectiveness of topical home care. For all those impressive results, it's no wonder that a little caution must be exercised. Following your customized post-peel instructions to the letter, taking special care not to introduce anything additional into the mix (no matter how tempting!), and protecting your fresh new skin from the sun will yield the most radiant results!

*even ice, which is an important part of an acne regimen, should be avoided in the days after a peel.

Attainable Beauty?

2010-02-03T04:30:00.000-08:00

It seems like every so often, a new set of soul-crushing celebrity photo retouching before-and-afters gets released to the general public to the shock and dismay of those of us clinging to hope that our diet, exercise, and beauty care efforts may one day yield the plastic-y perfection we see on magazine pages.

We despair and wonder, as Nicki Zevola of FutureDerm.com laments, "If Hollywood celebrities, blessed with access to the best nutritionists, chefs, trainers, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and stylists, cannot even look as good as themselves in photos, then how can we expect to do so?"

While I think most would agree that some of the retouches in question are seriously over-the-top, I still don't think of it as a reason for regular people like us to stop trying to be as beautiful as we can. In fact, availing ourselves of all the wonderful beauty-enhancing technology that has become available in the last several decades can have a number of tangible benefits. In fact, according to this article from Science Daily, "physically attractive people have advantages that unattractive people do not," and the scope of these advantages ranges from the workplace to public and private life.

Still need a good reason to hold fast to your beauty routine? Most of us don't look like airbrushed celebrities, but looking as good as we can is important. The the impact on self-confidence of appearing as attractive as possible is undeniable. Have any doubts? Just look at the elevated rates of depression, social withdrawal, and unemployment among acne sufferers.

French Elle did a "Stars Sans Fards" spread last April where Eva Herzigova, Monica Bellucci, Sophie Marceau, Charlotte Rampling and several others posed without makeup, pro hairstyling, airbrushing or even wardrobing (they look like they just rolled out of bed)... and they are astonishingly beautiful! Of course the lighting is fabulous and they probably took hundreds of pictures to get the final cuts, but to me, part of the beauty of the spread is its testament to the miracles of modern skin technology. No, they may not have had makeup on, but I doubt that any of those stars went to bed the night before that shoot without applying top-knotch corrective skincare!

As an Esthetician, my ears prick up when people point out how unrealistic and unattainable celebrity beauty is--not because I disagree, but because I have seen how much of a psychological, social, and yes, sometimes even professional boost people get by optimizing their own beauty through truly accessible means. Discouragement that you won't wind up looking like Madonna (err, the photo-retouched Madonna, that is) is not a good reason to turn away from a well-selected and effective skincare routine. Just like exercising and eating well, a healthy skin routine is a no-brainer for looking and feeling better. Nope, one microdermabrasion session is not going to turn you into Barbie, but a sustained, consistent routine of proven skin care technology is an investment that I have seen pay off in all areas of life.

Dermaplaning

2010-01-23T06:45:00.000-08:00

SKINsantamonica Esthetician Sara Turbeville recently wrote an excellent blog on dermaplaning that answers many of the questions I get asked about the treatment, namely:

What is it? Dermaplaning is an excellent one-two punch treatment for women who want both amazing exfoliation combined with the elimination of their peach fuzz. The process of dermaplaning is best described as a meticulous close shave that offers a "glassy skin effect" (she's not kidding!) and enhanced permeation of active skincare applied afterwards.
Does it hurt? Not as long as you hold still...
Will my facial fuzz grow back darker and thicker? Nope, our hairs are dead keratin and there is no way for the live follicles to know what's going on at the visible ends of hairs... Unfortunately this goes ditto for the hair on our heads, otherwise we could expect abundant hair growth after every trim--wouldn't that be nice!

Dermaplaning at the Skin Studio can be done as a quick standalone treatment (cleanse, dermaplane, corrective serum, moisturizer and SPF), or added to an Infusion Facial or Peel. My personal favorite is dermaplaning plus a lactic acid peel (natural brightener, binds moisture into the skin), with the addition of Red/Infrared light (promotes tissue repair and collagen synthesis) and peptide serum.

Thank you, Sara, for spotlighting this great treatment!

Reviewed and Recommended: Hydropeptide

2009-09-22T05:36:00.000-07:00

The Skin Studio is pleased to introduce select offerings from HydroPeptide. The HydroPeptide Eye, Face, Serum, Mask and Lip products compliment the Skin Studio's goals of providing a comprehensive nonsurgical skin care program.

Peptides are small chains of specifically engineered proteins. They act as cell messengers, and peptides used in skincare fall into two broad categories.

The first type are peptides that stimulate repair in skin tissues, such as Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, and Tripeptide-1.

Neuropeptides make up the second category and function to relax wrinkle-causing muscle contractions. These include Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (also known as Argireline), Dipeptide Diacetate, and Hibiscus Extract.

Interestingly, the much-lauded anti-wrinkle peptide blend Matryxl 3000 by French laboratory Sederma is thought to be a mixture of Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide, both of which are contained in HydroPeptide's offerings.

In both categories, each peptide has a slightly different action, which means that for the best skin-repairing and wrinkle-relaxing results, a blend of the known beneficial peptides is ideal.

In HydroPeptide, I have found not only the most comprehensive blend of peptides, but also the addition of several other skin-perfecting components including growth factors, enzymes, hyaluronic acid, AHA's, and a potent range of free-radical-neutralizing antioxidants. Strategic inclusion HydroPeptide in your customized home care program in conjunction with scheduled in-studio treatments, ensures the most advanced and dramatic level of skin rejuvenation.

Slow Food... For Your Skin.

2009-04-01T06:43:00.001-07:00

Serum, moisturizer, eye cream, SPF, foundation, powder... by the time you leave the house, you may feel like a layer cake.

But the most important ingredient in your home care regimen doesn't come in a jar and you can't buy more of it... it's time.

The only way to see a return on the investment you have made in skin care is to use it correctly, and an indispensable part of that process is letting each component absorb fully before moving on to the next step.

After a thorough cosmeceutical cleansing and toning routine, a corrective serum or complex should be the first layer. Many of these agents can only be absorbed properly into dry skin, so letting your toner completely absorb is key. For daytime use, I often recommend corrective formulas with glycolic, salicylic and azelaic acids for acne-prone skin, kojic and gallic acids for lightening, vitamin C and DMAE to correct sun damage, spin trap and botanical antioxidants for age prevention, green tea and licorice for sensitive skin, and hyaluronic acid and EGF formulations for dehydration or after professional treatments. For nighttime use, most of my clients apply a carefully formulated retinol serum or complex at least two nights per week, and those interested in long-term reduction of hyperpigmentation and other concerns through deeper chemical peels alternate their retinol program with lighteners including hydroquinone.

Again, a few more minutes of product absorption at this step are crucial. Adding a moisturizer or SPF too early will not only dilute the corrective serum, but may also diminish the effectiveness of the moisturizer or sunscreen! After a patient few minutes (make tea, check email, dry your hair), follow one of the following orders of operations, taking care to WAIT between steps:

Chemical Sunscreen -> Moisturizer and Eye Cream -> Makeup
Moisturizer and Eye Cream -> Mineral Sunscreen -> Makeup
or for night time, Moisturizer and Eye Cream only

The reason for this order is that if you are using a chemical sunscreen, it needs to touch the skin directly in order to do its job (another reason to let your serum absorb completely before applying it), whereas if you are using a mineral sunscreen, it should be the outer layer as it protects by reflection.

And finally, as you have probably observed yourself, it's important to let those moisturizers and sunscreens settle into your skin before moving along to makeup if you want a smooth finish that will last all day.

To recap, the advantages of applying your skin care treatments in the right order, and waiting a few minutes between each are as follows:

Ensure full penetration of active skin care ingredients
Ensure even penetration of active skin care ingredients
Ensure full benefits of skin care treatments
Ensure full benefit of sun protection
Achieve healthy radiant skin!

There will be a quiz, so if you have any questions, call me at 504.717.4466 or just click below:

No Time Like The Present!

2009-03-29T14:11:00.001-07:00

So, you wake up, put on the kettle for green tea, and stumble to the bathroom to slather on some sunscreen before you walk the dog, and as you squint into the mirror, you notice... your skin looks pretty good today!

The next thought that comes to mind might not be, "I'd better make that microdermabrasion appointment so I can keep up the good work." In fact, the next thought might actually be, "No need to double cleanse, my skin looks awesome!"

Stop right there!

Whether you see a Skincare Specialist for regular treatments, treat yourself to a facial or microdermabrasion once in awhile, or stick to home skincare solutions, most would agree that the idea behind the effort is to enjoy the most awesome skin days possible per unit time. So what does this have to do with booking your next treatment? Everything.

Consistency is key with regards to your skin. Makeup trends may change with the season, but your core skincare routine (presuming you have found one that works for you), should remain fairly consistent throughout the year, and especially consistent on a day-to-day and week-to-week basis. Believe it or not, waiting until your skin is completely broken out, dehydrated, irritated, or sun-exposed to treat it really doesn't give you the best results. But booking your skincare treatment at a time when your skin is at its best really does!

When your skin is healthy, intact, and at it's best, it will benefit more from corrective and antioxidant treatments because active ingredients will penetrate more evenly and thoroughly
Your Skincare Specialist will be able to bump up the intensity of your treatment that little extra bit to ensure longer-lasting results without fear of aggrivating an existing condition
Your skin will look even more radiant after your treatment than it would if you waited until mid-breakout or after a period of neglecting your skin

Of course, there are times when coming in when your skin isn't looking so hot is a good idea. These include:

Swinging by the shop so that your Skincare Specialist can get a look at what's going on so that she will be better prepared for your next treatment
Correcting a problem that comes on suddenly or unexpectedly
During the phase when you are still getting into a consistent skin care routine and discovering what works for you

But, with those exceptions in mind, prevention becomes the central theme to the consistent skin care routine you are undertaking, so that by consistently deep cleansing, using corrective and antioxidant cosmeceuticals, and protecting your skin with moisturizer and sunscreen, and by scheduling your in-office treatments with consistency in mind, the instances of sudden skin issues should be minimal.

Recap: Radiant Skin Starts Here and Now!

Call 504-717-4466 to schedule your next treatment, or click on the link below:

The Beauty of Enzymes

2009-02-25T16:13:00.001-08:00

Enzymes are an incredibly complex group of molecules! They are proteins that speed up chemical reactions in cells. Skin cells, like other cells in the body, contain lots of enzymes that participate in the chemical reactions that occur there every day, but when we talk about enzymes in skin care, we are referring to keratolytic enzymes that speed up the normal process of exfoliation by digesting the keratin that makes up the dead uppper layer of the epidermis.

Enzymes that function in this manner can be harvested from various fruits including pineapple, papaya, and citrus, as well as squashes and gourds (particularly pumpkin), and even stronger enzymes are bovine-derived.

Despite their substantial skin-digesting powers, keratolytic enzymes are actually very sensitive to light and heat, and in addition to requiring careful storage, they also usually need to be mixed and activated by the skin care professional just prior to use.

Enzyme treatments can be an excellent choice for those bothered by mild forms of dermatitis, and for anyone seeking a fresher smoother skin surface without risk or downtime. When clients are heading out on vacation, I often recommend an enzyme treatment in lieu of more aggressive forms of exfoliation, so that they can get the glow of fresh skin and the benefit of increased corrective serum penetration without risking additional UV exposure to deeper layers of skin.

See Enzyme Peels at The Skin Studio for treatments that incorporate the benefits of keratolytic enzymes for the beauty of your skin!

Saying "I do" to your Skin

2009-02-14T18:47:00.000-08:00

Loving your skin is about more than just moisturizing. Believe it or not, loving your skin requires more than exfoliation, more than even antioxidants! Loving your skin is bigger than your in-office treatments, although they play an important role. To really, truly love your skin, you have to protect it.

Sun protection plays such an important role in skin's health that I can unequivocally say that a good stock of well-formulated, broad-spectrum SPF would be my cosmetic preparation of choice if I were stranded on a desert isle. In addition to my own personal convictions, the aesthetic and medical communities have also reached some dim conclusions about the effects of UV exposure. And of course, just a quick word on tanning beds from the World Health Organization, because I know you weren't seriously thinking that the death-ray coffins could be safe...

In addition to common sense precautions such as limiting time spent outdoors during the sun's peak hours, and using clothing to cover body skin, my most important pearl for my clients remains: it's not just about protecting your skin from sunshine, but rather shielding it from daylight. The fact that simple daylight does expose skin to UV rays explains dermatologists' and estheticians' insistence on year-round, rain-or-shine sun protection. And trust us, we've seen what skin looks like without it...

You're going to be in your skin for a long (hopefully very long) time. Even if you're not vain like I am, I still hope you will take protective measures to avoid the pain and heartache of skin cancer (and especially the deadly yet preventable malignant melanoma, which claims 8,000 American lives each year).

Also, for my clients who are lucky enough to be responsible for the skin of their children as well as their own, I stress that sun protection is a must for kids too! SPF use should begin at six months of age (with babies younger than six months protected vigilantly with clothing, bonnets, umbrellas, and other forms of shade), and making daily sunscreen application a family tradition is a gift your children will thank you for as the years go by.

The good news about sunscreen is that most people I talk to about UV damage do understand the need for daily broad spectrum protection. The objections to sunscreen that I usually encounter are:

I don't remember to apply it
It makes me feel greasy
It's hard to put makeup over it

Well, I can tell you from personal experience that once you find a sunscreen you love, you won't have any problems remembering to put it on. Between Pixie and the Skin Studio, we have close to a dozen excellently-formulated sunscreen options, including sunscreens with antioxidants, tinted sunscreens, mineral-based sunscreens, and shine-control sunscreens. We have testers of everything so there's really no excuse not to come in and play. Finding that special sunscreen can be a little like finding that special someone, so I strongly recommend test-driving a handful of formulations until you find the one that works best for you.

And last but not least, if you are avoiding using sunscreen because you still kind-of sort-of deep-down secretly like to look tan, I have good news: you can still enjoy the glow of a "tan" by stopping at Pixie Cosmetics and Skincare to pick up your easier-than-sliced-bread Tan Towels! Just remember that the tan you get from sunless tanners is actually a stain on the upper layers of the epidermis, not a melanin reaction deep in the skin, and it does nothing to protect skin from UV damage, so sunscreen use is still mandatory.

Falling Asleep With Makeup

2008-10-17T04:31:00.000-07:00

It's not pretty, but it happens.

Not only is sleeping with makeup a missed opportunity for your skin to receive the benefit of the corrective treatments you apply after a thorough cleansing, but even the most skin-friendly makeup is not meant to be worn for a straight 24-hour period, which is what will wind up happening if you fall asleep in it.

The institut' DERMed Purifying Protein Mask, coming soon to The Skin Studio, is a decongesting treatment mask with Glyco-proteins and Kaolin to boost the skin's natural immunity, inhibit bacteria and combat blemishes before they become problematic, and it is my only choice for the morning after sleeping with makeup.

Here's how I do it:
1) Wake up and groan with the realization that I have indeed slept in my makeup
2) Pull back my hair and cleanse with my Surface Lotion Cleanser, taking extra care to spend enough time massaging the cleanser into my skin to break down all the oils and makeup residue
3) Cleanse with my Corrective Cleanser of choice, again massaging thoroughly
4) Apply the Purifying Protein Mask in a thin layer to my damp skin, massaging it in thoroughly (and taking special care to remove the mask from the container with a clean spatula or butter knife to avoid contaminating the whole jar!)
5) Eat toast, surf the web, feed my dog
6) Rinse
7) Corrective Toner (avoid temptation to scrub)
8) Corrective Treatment or Treatments
9) Hydrate
10) Hydrate
11) SPF

The reason for the double hydration is that while the Protein Mask pulls out the residue from your skin, it will also leave it slightly dry and tight. In order to most quickly return your skin to balance, hydrate twice with your recommended hydrating cream.

And most importantly... don't do it again!

If you manage sleep with makeup for a few nights running (not recommended), speak with your esthetician to schedule a refinement treatment as soon as possible.

Professional Products

2008-10-14T06:28:00.000-07:00

Before investing money and time into a new home skincare routine, I have noticed that most of my clients want to know why they should make the change.

There are three things that set a professional skincare regimen (and specifically, the customized institut' DERMed professional skincare regimen recommended for you at The Skin Studio) apart from something purchased in a drugstore, at a cosmetics counter, through a multi-level marketing company, at a mall kiosk, or online:

Active formulations
Manufacturing techniques
Instructions for use

I will refer to your professionally recommended skincare routine as "professional skincare" and the other types of skin care as "mass market skincare" for the purpose of this blog.

Active formulation:
The first important distinction is that when a professional skincare company is researching and developing a new product, the chemists understand that the product will be professionally recommended and monitored by a licensed skincare specialist. A mass market company, on the other hand, knows that individual consumers will come to their own conclusions about whether the product is suitable for them, meaning that if they formulate a product with strong anti-acne or anti-aging ingredients, there will be a certain percentage of consumers who will mis-categorize their own sensitive or rosacea skin, apply the product, and have an adverse reaction. Formulation efforts, therefore, are fundamentally different between professional and mass market skincare companies. While professional companies want to put the highest available concentrations of the most potent available ingredients to target specific skin problems and get results, mass market companies want to minimize their risk by making all of their formulations relatively bland and harmless if used incorrectly, which means that, despite some very expensive advertising efforts, these products are much less likely to produce results.

Manufacturing techniques:
The life of a skincare product begins with research and development, and ends with the application on your face, but the in-between steps may vary greatly. While professional skincare companies that deliver their products directly to the estheticians using them will generally formulate in smaller batches that must be used in 2 years, mass market skincare (due to a much larger distribution infrastructure) must be formulated to last 7 years: 2 years in a vat in the factory, 2 years bottled on a distribution shelf, 2 years bottled on a retail shelf, and 1 year in your bathroom. This means that mass market products will contain a much greater proportion of potentially irritating preservatives, and that the level of activity of skin-correcting ingredients will be greatly diminished by the time the product lands on your skin.

Instructions for use:
Because professional skincare is so much more potent than mass market skincare for reasons of formulation and distribution procedures described above, professional skincare companies also rely on licensed skincare specialists to provide clients with specific instructions on how to use their products. In the case of an institut' DERMed home routine, this means that the amount of product used will be much less in many cases than most clients are used to using. Pea-sized drops of cleanser, 2-3 pumps of toner, and 1/4 pump of eye cream mean that an initial skincare routine purchase will last much, much longer than a traditional mass market skincare purchase. It also means that your skincare specialist's instructions are of prime importance. A once-weekly manual exfoliator or acne drying mask will become problematic if used twice daily. A hydroxy-acid toner that is to be diluted on a damp cotton pad and wiped gently over the whole face will cause irritation if you decide to apply it full-strength and rub and grind it into your skin. An intensive vitamin A product applied 2 hours after microdermabrasion when your esthetician told you not to use it for 2 days will burn!

In conclusion, since I don't run across too many people who are willing to invest in professional treatments but don't want the best, most accelerated results, I am willing to go as far as to say that the success of your treatment plan does depend on investing in a professional home skincare regimen and following your skincare specialist's instructions to the letter. I think you will find that it is an investment whose returns will shine beautifully!

How often should I come in?

2008-10-13T07:55:00.000-07:00

The intensity of your treatments will depend on a number of factors:

Your skin concerns
Your skin's condition when you begin treatments
How quickly you want to see results
What other procedures you may have had recently*
Your own time constraints

Generally speaking, I like to see new clients the most often, sometimes spacing treatments such as microdermabrasion as closely as every 10-12 days for the first four to six appointments. Another technique that I use is alternating treatments between, for example, microdermabrasion and acid peels for the initial treatments, to provide the skin with the benefits of both methods. Clients then graduate to a "maintenance level" of skincare treatments after certain goals have been achieved.

If the skin's barrier function is compromised, treatments must begin at a much lower level of intensity, focusing on rebuilding the acid mantle before beginning more targeted skincare.

While those with busy schedules may find it hard to come in as often as would be ideal, the recommended institut' DERMed home treatment plan is the key to bridging that gap. Since you will be cleansing, toning, exfoliating, and applying corrective treatments 60 times a month whereas I will be professionally treating your skin one to two times in that period, being meticulous about following your skincare routine is vital to the accelerated results you are looking for.

*Some medical procedures may limit the intensity and frequency of skincare treatments. These include but are not limited to: laser treatments for hair removal, skin resurfacing, or vein treatment, chemical peels in a medical office, prescription skin care, recent aesthetic or reconstructive plastic surgery, or injectable anti-aging treatments such as Botox or Juvederm.

To Scrub or Not to Scrub

2008-09-16T07:45:00.000-07:00

One question I am often asked by clients and readers is whether I would recommend any of the electronic face-scrubbing devices that are currently on the market. While most of the clients I see, whether for a simple brow arching or an in-depth cosmeceutical treatment, do not cleanse thoroughly enough, I don't necessarly think that an electronic scrubbing device is the answer. For the most thorough cleansing I have found to date, I recommend that all my clients use a twice-daily thorough cosmeceutical cleansing regimen which includes three steps:

Surface Cleansing with a gentle, creamy cleanser that does contain skin-friendly oils. Wait, put oils on the skin to cleanse it? Yes! In addition to the makeup we apply intentionally, our skin becomes coated throughout the day with a layer of sebum and sweat coming from the inside, and a layer of dirt, dust, and pollution coming from the outside. As any mechanic who has ever used motor oil to remove grease can tell you, oil dissolves oil, and all the impurities on the surface of the skin are held firmly in place by the oils that have been secreted. A thorough cleanse must start with a gentle creamy cleanser massaged thoroughly into the skin for a significant period of time--I recommend a minute or more, and 2-3 minutes as a weekly deep cleanse. Rather than splashing or rinsing the face, which does not completely remove the cleanser and the debris it has dissolved, the surface cleanser should be wiped off gently but firmly with a warm, wrung-out washcloth.
Corrective Cleansing by applying an incredibly small amount of the institut' DERMed corrective cleanser recommended for you and working the cleanser into the skin of the face for a minimum of 30 seconds. The corrective cleanser in most cases will not foam. You may feel a tingling sensation from the corrective cleanser. This sensation may subsist the longer you adhere to your home care regimen, may be present each time you use the corrective cleanser, or may fluctuate depending on your in-office treatments. Again, wipe the cleanser off with a warm, wrung-out washcloth. If it is not too saturated with make-up, you may rinse and re-wring the same cloth you just used with the Surface Cleansing Lotion, but toss it in the hamper when you are finished: each washcloth should only be used for one cleansing ritual to avoid harboring bacteria that can compromise your skin's acid mantle.
Treatment Toning to not only remove any last traces of makeup or cleanser, but also to deposit skin correcting agents onto the skin to enhance the results of your professional and home corrective treatments. The best method I have come across for using the potent institut' DERMed treatment toners is to dampen a cotton round or square with a few drops of water, spray 2-3 pumps of the toner onto the slightly damp pad, and wipe gently over the whole face for at least 30 seconds. While the toning step is completing the cleansing ritual, the idea is not to scrub your face with it--doing so could cause irritation. Simply wipe gently across the whole face, including hairline, jaw and neck, and the skin beneath the eyebrows, allowing remaining debris to be swept away as corrective compounds are deposited onto your skin.

Please remember that while I advocate deep massaging of the face with your fingers, I never recommend using your fingernails on your face. Prior to undertaking the cleansing ritual, I strongly recommend you do a thorough hand-washing with soap and water. I can also not overstate how important it is to keep a tall stack of washcloths by your bathroom sink for cleansing. Personally, I put my used face cloths over the side of the bathtub to dry and put them in the laundry later, with hot water and bleach or vinegar. The effectiveness of the cleansing ritual can be increased by taking care to regularly cleanse makeup brushes and change pillow cases as well, even ironing or steaming pillow cases prior to use. Rather than spending $350 on an electronic facial cleansing device, I recommend buying several dozen washcloths and a series of skin refinement services at The Skin Studio!

Combinations of Skin Concerns

2008-09-13T05:32:00.000-07:00

These are my favorite clients:

the thirty-something professional who is beginning to see hyperpigmentation from childhood sun exposure, but still struggles with hormonal breakouts

the anti-aging client who struggles with both texture and pigment changes

the teen who can occasionally get her acne under control with drugstore treatments, but wants to avoid having acne scars as an adult

They prove a very important point about skin care: it is complicated. The truth is that most of us, unless our skin is clear, firm, even-textured, evenly-pigmented, not too oily, and not too dry, are concerned about skin care. What often happens is that we focus all of our energy on one of the skin concerns, and are effectively blindsighted to the others. Here are some examples:

Most of my anti-aging clients will come in concerned about either texture or pigmentation, but not both. In reality, most will see the best results from treating both! Prior to seeking professional skin care, they have largely focused on one or the other, either loading up on heavy "wrinkle" creams which do nothing for pigmentation, or focusing their skin care regimen exclusively on lightening agents which do nothing to build up collagen in the skin. Having access to a wide range of targeted cosmeceutical treatments through institut' DERMed professional skincare allows me to customize a skin care treatment and home plan to provide the most accelerated anti-aging results.

On a personal note, before entering into acne treatments with my esthetician and mentor, Stephanie McChesney, I had convinced myself that the root of all my skin problems was that I had sensitive skin. Stephanie explained that in fact, far from having sensitive skin, I simply had so much buildup of dead skin cells (as a result of only using products labeled for sensitive skin that did not provide me with any exfoliation) that I was experiencing both the predictable breakouts from lack of cell turnover, and frequent patchy irritation as a result of my skin's attempt to turn over normally. Professional treatments with Stephanie and a home care regimen that she carefully monitored (the same treatments and products I now use on myself and my clients) provided a 4-month solution to a 10-year acne problem which had persisted only because, as someone whose skin care knowledge was--at that time--limited to magazine editors' opinions, I had misjudged my own problem!

These examples show the strong value of professional intervention beyond the actual professional treatments that skin care specialists are able to provide. An effective skin care regimen doesn't get off the ground until accurate and complete analyses are made of all the skin's conditions.

The Skin Studio

2008-09-13T05:12:00.000-07:00

Welcome to The Skin Studio blog, where I will try to answer some of the many questions I get about the care and keeping of our most visible organ--the skin!

A licensed Esthethcian in Louisiana, I operate The Skin Studio at Pixie Cosmetics and Skincare, where I use the institut' DERMed treatment and home care system which includes professional peels, along with extensively researched in-office treatments such as microdermabrasion, ultrasonic exfoliation and permeation, germicidal high frequency treatments, and microcurrent lifting technology for the most advanced treatment of cosmetic skin concerns such as acne, signs of aging, sensitive skin, and uneven pigmentation.

All of the treatments I choose to offer are based on thorough research as well as my personal experience. As someone who suffered for much longer than necessary with acne, I realize the frustration that complexion issues can cause, and my goal is to give the most accelerated results possible for your skin type.