tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90892536118954534312024-02-18T22:15:30.326-08:00Skin TipsAesthetician Christine Giustra spills on the how's and why's of her skincare recommendations.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-52575601457686393162019-04-16T16:55:00.003-07:002019-05-05T09:47:53.215-07:00Taking Collagen?I want my ☕ to make me look younger!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeA7e4uhBFAyooo6NuvLFF345MCayPtXiL952eY9CgspdVMPVGRRZ7vjGwgxpJshHK2MYHXycHe18g8SjJ7wfgA3C5GtzztZVYafpmnvVTP4K518Ur623-Af-TCqw5MSniW9KPYzPqqI/s1600/erol-ahmed-399674-unsplash.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeA7e4uhBFAyooo6NuvLFF345MCayPtXiL952eY9CgspdVMPVGRRZ7vjGwgxpJshHK2MYHXycHe18g8SjJ7wfgA3C5GtzztZVYafpmnvVTP4K518Ur623-Af-TCqw5MSniW9KPYzPqqI/s320/erol-ahmed-399674-unsplash.jpg" /></a><br />
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Don't we all? It's a delightful thought - being able to mix an odorless tasteless and easily dissolved powder into our coffee and have this result in a younger fresher face... But the truth about collagen in the skin is more complicated than the handy new wave of supplements would have us believe.<br />
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collagen">Collagen </a>is a structural protein that makes up... well... a lot of things. In our bodies, it's particularly abundant in connective tissue, which is as good a reason as any to try to make sure we have enough of it - doesn't everyone also want sexy bouncy young tendons?<br />
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Sadly, neither the collagen in our youthful faces nor the collagen in our youthful joints will be directly augmented by ingesting more collagen. Structural proteins are big, huge molecules (another reason that collagen is kind of useless when applied topically, except insofar as it holds moisture against the skin nicely), and like any other finished protein, they're always going to be dismantled into smaller parts by helpful enzymes in our digestive systems once stomach acid has denatured them. Those smaller proteins and amino acids are sent wherever your body needs them, enabling a total rebuild of whatever protein you consume into more you (as long as what you eat contains enough of the essential amino acids it needs to fabricate structural proteins).<br />
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The compelling argument, therefore, for consuming collagen (whether in the form of a powdered collagen supplement or bone broth or just chowing down on gristle, I suppose) is not that it provides collagen that will go directly to the spots we're all hoping for it to go, but that it supplies amino acids in a ratio conducive to the construction of new collagen in areas that can produce new collagen.<br />
This sounds pretty great, and it's your body so if you want to chew the bones, be my guest, but the notion misses two points. The first is that if you're getting sufficient protein in your diet, the ratios aren't hugely important because you'll wind up with plenty of all the amino acids anyway and it's not going to be a problem for your body to build those up into collagen where it's needed. The other is that collagen is really only synthesized in the skin as a result of events that trigger the fibroblasts - little collagen factories deep in the skin. It takes special triggering to engage these cells to do their job after, you know, childhood. A handful of in-office treatments are known to do this. These include, from less invasive to more invasive: <br />
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<li>microdermabrasion </li>
<li>coral calcium peels </li>
<li>traditional chemical peels </li>
<li>microneedling </li>
<li>fibroblast plasma lifting </li>
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To a lesser extent, any time you moderately exfoliate the skin - like at home with hydroxy acids or a retinoid serum - you'll also have a bit of activation, and that activation is cumulative if you keep it up. Sunscreen goes a looooong way to protecting the collagen you do have. Vitamin C is also crucial in collagen synthesis, so I would say, even though it's unglamorous, if you're going to explore supplementation for the benefit of your collagen, Vitamin C is the way to go (and topical is great too)!<br />
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Did that answer your qustion? Want to know more? Ready to get on the table? Visit SpaAeon.com for all this and more!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-15478414262042261862016-06-06T12:07:00.000-07:002019-05-05T09:49:28.762-07:00Ultrasonic Cavitation<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImqeN5gmxMyuZbqgxL9zATzkh66tXNlXwTSYU9FkDg88dr202FD1IotaQvWxjt-AU19vJ95tSSURc0qkdt8TCtBdtGMLLa123xk7J-DCcYjklfmi40WkxLyj3YhzkLXIOpA0nKjiXfzU/s1600/icons8-team-643494-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImqeN5gmxMyuZbqgxL9zATzkh66tXNlXwTSYU9FkDg88dr202FD1IotaQvWxjt-AU19vJ95tSSURc0qkdt8TCtBdtGMLLa123xk7J-DCcYjklfmi40WkxLyj3YhzkLXIOpA0nKjiXfzU/s200/icons8-team-643494-unsplash.jpg" width="200" /></a>Ready to hear something neat?<br />
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If you come to Spa Aeon, we can use sound to scare the gunk out of your pores! And before you ask, no, there is no shouting involved.<br />
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Turns out there is an incredible process known as "cavitation" that involves the formation of bubbles or voids as a result of forces acting upon a substance. And it also turns out that certain very high pitched sounds are capable of causing these bubbles in water. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizghorUC4OyC5kuPYT9NzD4DSJHyxXJK-psJVV_RUqnF6t1G4CINMi8xCniyeb3nR9GskvxqfX2_DT1FDO6oF4UlpeI4N3LIjjTlimG91PqZg9NrME9dk7EYeOA0DapvWRiHEzuhyTgnk/s1600/cavitation.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizghorUC4OyC5kuPYT9NzD4DSJHyxXJK-psJVV_RUqnF6t1G4CINMi8xCniyeb3nR9GskvxqfX2_DT1FDO6oF4UlpeI4N3LIjjTlimG91PqZg9NrME9dk7EYeOA0DapvWRiHEzuhyTgnk/s320/cavitation.gif" width="320" /></a><br />
Or as Wikipedia describes it, "If the acoustic intensity is sufficiently high, the bubbles will first grow in size and then rapidly collapse" and in the skincare application of the technology, those collapsing bubbles can be used to dislodge stuck oil, oxidized debris, and dead skin cells that are stuck to your face.<br />
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So what does this mean for your skin?<br />
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1) Less time extracting<br />
2) Less pressure and poking during extracting<br />
3) Removal of even smaller clogs than can be seen and extracted manually</div>
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Another fascinating thing about this device is that younger people are more likely to hear it than older people, and I've noticed that musicians and sound engineers are particularly likely to hear the sound. How's your hearing? </div>
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Reserve the Infusion Facial (regular price $120; duration 75 blissful minutes) at SpaAeon.com/booking </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-28676289239998387242016-05-24T14:19:00.000-07:002019-05-05T09:45:53.028-07:00Yes, eat coconut oil 🥥 No, don't moisturize with it.Coconut oil is enjoying an unprecedented moment of glory in popular beauty culture, and like many beauty fiends, I love it too! <br />
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It's an awesome ingredient with a lot going for it, but it's still just that - an ingredient. <br />
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Coconut oil is made up of about 50% lauric acid. A medium-chain fatty acid that functions as both an anti-inflammatory and an acne-fighter, this is definitely an ingredient I like seeing on those moisturizer labels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8pvUeDA9ez08r60aksxdbOmpwky_BaSit-tJG2cEvYP3echbtkTnAjRT7OZXur-X3InKEJ0gigVt30bYQ3eHYix1lJ5KCT8vbpM2djLHjk-kCxeJjxzash6NOPrt8ytM6wfzsc8Ek8Q/s1600/coconut-1327503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8pvUeDA9ez08r60aksxdbOmpwky_BaSit-tJG2cEvYP3echbtkTnAjRT7OZXur-X3InKEJ0gigVt30bYQ3eHYix1lJ5KCT8vbpM2djLHjk-kCxeJjxzash6NOPrt8ytM6wfzsc8Ek8Q/s320/coconut-1327503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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But on its own, coconut oil, like any other oil, is only half the story. <br />
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A true moisturizer is made up of an emollient phase and an aqueous phase. Oils, butters, and lubricants in the emollient phase repair the phospholipid bilayer of the skin cells, and form a barrier against outside invasion. Some other great emollients are shea butter, jojoba oil, and squalene, found in a variety of home treatment products I offer at the Studio. But many of the beneficial ingredients available for topical use - whether they are botanical extracts or synthesized nutrients - are water soluble, and must be found in the aqueous phase of a skincare product.<br />
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The most important example I can think of is humectants. Humectants are the ingredients in skincare that bind water into the skin. These include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and sodium PCA. Ingredients like these must not only be dissolved in water, but must be present in a formulation with enough water to carry water across the barrier and plump skin, providing cell hydration and allowing cell organelles to function at their optimum health! In fact, some professionals believe that these moisture-binding ingredients are what make a moisturizer a moisturizer.<br />
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Additional great nutrients like Vitamin C, green tea extract, honey, and hydroxy acids are also water soluble, and thus must be found in the aqueous phases of moisturizing lotions, creams, or serums. <br />
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For this reason, it really takes a great, well-rounded skincare formulation in which the emollient phase and aqueous phase are properly emulsified to offer you all the benefits of modern skincare. <br />
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While coconut oil has a delightful texture and can be enjoyed as a massage oil or hair conditioner with few risks to the skin (it does still contain myristic acid, so not every acne-prone individual will be able to use it), it's not actually a moisturizer on its own. For topical use, find it in high quality professional moisturizers from your local esthetician.<br />
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Schedule with us at SpaAeon.com/bookingUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-2866960500750802822014-06-28T14:58:00.003-07:002019-05-05T08:35:13.107-07:00Eat to Heal: Sun Damage Edition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLI7HFqfp_cALNc2PkqL2t_tihmf_j5SrnooK_rX4nnmxpZg9wTVjAKaX7Xx0CeFJCLGxnSj1OO4SuAFAtUq-1FUCWOA3oiz8gaNY7gqFo9jJL5Ndj6IjttonSmNShZFDov9EFHolRXQ/s1600/mike-aunzo-98522-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tropical sunset" border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLI7HFqfp_cALNc2PkqL2t_tihmf_j5SrnooK_rX4nnmxpZg9wTVjAKaX7Xx0CeFJCLGxnSj1OO4SuAFAtUq-1FUCWOA3oiz8gaNY7gqFo9jJL5Ndj6IjttonSmNShZFDov9EFHolRXQ/s320/mike-aunzo-98522-unsplash.jpg" title="sunset" width="320" /></a><br />
Sunburn, sun poisoning, sun allergy. Now your skin is paying, but fortunately there's a way to stop the damage (or at least speed up your skin's recovery system) if you're willing to listen to your body. Here's the scoop!<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycation" target="_blank"><i>Glycation</i></a> is the name given to a chemical reaction that combines fats and proteins with sugars like glucose and fructose in the presence of heat. The process of glycation leads to <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_glycation_end-product" target="_blank">Advanced Glycation Endproducts</a></i>--the stiffened proteins that have reacted to sugar under heat. Cells whose proteins have been stiffened this way do not function as they should, and are commonly associated with chronic aging conditions. In skin, the presence of AGE's presents with a yellowish color, less firmness and bounce (glycated proteins in collagen and elastin cells), and wrinkles. Cells affected by these pathogenic glycated proteins in the skin are also less likely to heal and replicate properly, meaning that skin will appear damaged for longer after any instance of inflammation.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFnK53_lVjmqxiDxZ_Z8pADV39WvHNF7xvoePguLm2wkYaI6TmhmIiqCbwPwug3rEUYtCUr4UQI0JmPp3WWOOTVErbFX487mS_NAymCKW8UhTQxNE7YAP2NTftdV9LeuWtTc4k5sXrXM/s1600/tuan-nguy-n-minh-601122-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="grilling meat" border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFnK53_lVjmqxiDxZ_Z8pADV39WvHNF7xvoePguLm2wkYaI6TmhmIiqCbwPwug3rEUYtCUr4UQI0JmPp3WWOOTVErbFX487mS_NAymCKW8UhTQxNE7YAP2NTftdV9LeuWtTc4k5sXrXM/s320/tuan-nguy-n-minh-601122-unsplash.jpg" title="barbecue" width="320" /></a><br />Three ways to overload your skin with these harmful compounds are by eating smoked, broiled, and barbecued foods, exposing your skin to smoke (whether it comes from cigarettes, bonfires, or the barbecue itself), and of course by experiencing sun damage. Remember that "sun damage" is a catchall phrase that refers to any and of the effects of the sun on skin, from tanning all the way to severe photodermatitis (sun poisoning). <br />
So to recap: grilling, sun, and smoke... Sound like a familiar trio this time of year?<br />
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As an added bonus, a <a href="http://www.prevention.com/beauty/beauty/how-sugar-ages-your-skin" target="_blank">lifetime of eating sugar</a> promotes the formation of these glycated proteins from the inside out.<br />
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Any time the skin's barrier function is compromised (whether caused by the contribution of exogenous glycated proteins, topical irritants, any sort of pathogen, or the endogenous presence of damaged cells that exit as a natural but undesirable part of the aging process), the inflammatory cascade is activated in order to return this vital organ to homeostasis. When this happens, your capillaries dilate to increase blood flow to the area (which is why skin typically turns pink or even purple where it's wounded), physiological changes occur in the vascular structures and plasma begins to leave the bloodstream and enter tissues at the site of the damage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdJzRa2KMR6zRpF4lNAOZte9-9rIGdAiO_BRgR-q_s7LoThmf8aMS4wSFw2hgZp1VP2TsCKnLqIPAp07fgXrcCp-ZwcU3RGVLD2qqHusL_D61ljH_AgXi3VuEk9lbsPkmMSRwnTOyZJw/s1600/florencia-potter-738829-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="lemon" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdJzRa2KMR6zRpF4lNAOZte9-9rIGdAiO_BRgR-q_s7LoThmf8aMS4wSFw2hgZp1VP2TsCKnLqIPAp07fgXrcCp-ZwcU3RGVLD2qqHusL_D61ljH_AgXi3VuEk9lbsPkmMSRwnTOyZJw/s320/florencia-potter-738829-unsplash.jpg" title="lemon" width="213" /></a><br />So obviously your next step is not going to be to chow down on a burger and ice cream, but are there particular foods you can eat to help undo some of this damage? Yep! According to the <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3704564/" target="_blank">National Institutes of Health</a>, eating more fruits and vegetables, certain low-fat dairy products, less animal protein, and exposing our foods (especially fats and proteins) to acids such as vinegar and lemon juice are all great ways to slow and reverse the glycation process. <a href="http://www.lef.org/magazine/mag2008/apr2008_Guard-Your-Proteins-Against-Premature-Aging_02.htm" target="_blank">Cooking with liquids</a> (for example, steaming or poaching) also inhibits the "sticking" that occurs between proteins, fats, and sugars during the glycation process. Consuming AND applying <a href="http://www.prevention.com/beauty/beauty/how-sugar-ages-your-skin?page=2" target="_blank">antioxidants</a> like Vitamin C and green tea reverse damage too, so load up this season while the sun's high! <br />
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Of course, where would we be if I didn't point out how important it is to wear a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 every day to save your skin :)<br />
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Happy Summer!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-86780762317679683122014-05-08T12:46:00.002-07:002019-05-05T09:59:47.986-07:00Light Therapies for Skin <div class="comment-text">
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The secret code is 648</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDI3m09sRIrYiy1nqJgjUNvuEx0L_sBesIaoVMry44U5uMENNSA6VQabQdWuI3vJqH7riTE_YV2tAXqHZybgwqSai-2hjZauFaziYRkN8rhImRAS0vNOD2G_boZejPLFai7EXToeUNjY/s1600/eugenia-maximova-767734-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDI3m09sRIrYiy1nqJgjUNvuEx0L_sBesIaoVMry44U5uMENNSA6VQabQdWuI3vJqH7riTE_YV2tAXqHZybgwqSai-2hjZauFaziYRkN8rhImRAS0vNOD2G_boZejPLFai7EXToeUNjY/s320/eugenia-maximova-767734-unsplash.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You see, 648 (nanometers, to be specific) is the numeric representation of a wavelength on the electromagnetic spectrum that corresponds to a pretty, visible red color.</div>
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Skincare blogger Nicki Zevola wrote a little something about this wavelength, and the possibility of using it in a cream version over at her blog <a href="http://www.futurederm.com/2011/09/01/can-you-really-get-light-therapy-in-a-cream/" target="_blank">FutureDerm</a>, and I've been meaning to respond for quite some time!<br />
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I am of course totally intrigued by the potential for encapsulating light filters into skincare for targeted results (duh!), and while the technology isn't there yet, I did still want to clarify a few things to make it easier for readers in<span style="font-family: inherit;">terested in having light treatments, whether at Spa Aeon or a dermatology office.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Nicki explains that the polyphenol responsible for converting UV light to beneficial 648nm focused light is expected to work "<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 21px;">because encapsulating the polyphenol with an inert tricalcium phosphate particle makes the product proven to transmit visible red light into the skin."</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/2/28/Liposome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/2/28/Liposome.jpg" height="275" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Presumably this encapsulation is something similar to liposome technology, although this was not revealed in the article. Here's a picture of a liposome!</span><br />
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Nicki goes on to say that unfortunately, "<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "helvetica neue light" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;">There is a </span><em style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px;">lot</em><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "helvetica neue light" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"> less red LED light exposure from it than a targeted IPL treatment, which has 800 (or more) focused diodes," however I </span>would like to clarify one point for the non-skin professional readers, which is that IPL treatments and LED treatments are very different, and IPL treatments don't even use diodes (they use bulbs!).<br />
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Both of these treatments are also very different than laser treatments, despite the terms being used interchangeably here and on other blogs.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.prolightaesthetics.com/i//tn_P1010069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.prolightaesthetics.com/i//tn_P1010069.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the individual diodes</td></tr>
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LED treatments are the most gentle light-based version of phototherapy for the skin. The lights (Light Emitting Diodes – juiced up versions of the indicator lights on common electronics, which are used in those applications precisely because they generate very little heat) are warm but not hot, and presuming adequate eye protection, these treatments are virtually zero-risk and can be performed on any skin tone.<br />
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IPL treatments are the next step up in terms of results, but also in terms of risks. Individuals with the darkest skin tones must not be treated with these devices. Those with medium skin tones may experience unwanted pigmentation or burns if treatments are not performed correctly. There is moderate discomfort.<br />
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Laser treatments differ primarily from LED and IPL treatments in that laser light is collimated, meaning the rays are very nearly parallel – the light sticks together in a precise beam rather than spreading and diffusing across the treatment area. As a result, laser treatments are much more focused and with greater light energy per unit area, these treatments promise some of the most significant results, but come at the greatest expense and with the highest risk and downtime.<br />
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It is so exciting to hear that advances in skincare may mean extending the incredible benefits of light treatments into daily life! I can’t wait to hear how the trials on these ingredients turn out. Stay tuned, and in the mean time visit us at SpaAeon.com for a variety of light-based modality facial treatments!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-29441664838819287022014-02-21T07:30:00.000-08:002019-05-05T09:51:11.044-07:00Skin Myths Revealed<div>
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<b><i>Skin myths abound on the internet. </i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpSg2fMF0xOkmxo7vgNUBCNc75x_uw6X4_yeir59VLDfXaSPqfN83FKX6t-i3mNAPtRO9n2dWtfBNwn0EL85mD-DGGks-jMDPeYMoiZXe2OSPLxh5Y-TF_ebG_x-WxHdY0FzMVl18LFU/s1600/ian-dooley-298780-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpSg2fMF0xOkmxo7vgNUBCNc75x_uw6X4_yeir59VLDfXaSPqfN83FKX6t-i3mNAPtRO9n2dWtfBNwn0EL85mD-DGGks-jMDPeYMoiZXe2OSPLxh5Y-TF_ebG_x-WxHdY0FzMVl18LFU/s320/ian-dooley-298780-unsplash.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
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<b><i>Here's why believing a few of them aren't helping your glow...</i></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Myth #1</b> - <i>I
have sensitive skin.</i> No, you don't. With the exception of like 3 of my
actual clients (and I work a LOT), you actually don't have sensitive
skin. You're coming in because it looks and feels like you have
sensitive skin. You're red, irritated, peely, chapped, inflammed, hot,
aggrivated. BUT, great news, you don't actually have sensitive skin!
In reality, 97% of the individuals I see who claim to have sensitive
skin are experiencing SENSITIZED skin as a result of one or more skin
aggressors. Most commonly, these are fragrance ingredients in their
skincare products, particularly linalool and limonene, which are
aromatic constituents of citrus and some flower essential oils. Great
news - eliminate the irritants, eliminate the irritation. And on to...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Lactic-acid-3D-balls.png/753px-Lactic-acid-3D-balls.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Lactic-acid-3D-balls.png/753px-Lactic-acid-3D-balls.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(lactic acid also looks like this)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<b>Myth #2</b> - <i>I can't exfoliate because my skin is too sensitive.</i>
Wrong again! Once we have your sensitized skin under control, we not
only CAN, but MUST carefully reintroduce ingredients that stimulate cell
turnover. What a waste to have all the redness, irritation, and heat
go away only to leave the peely, dry skin behind. And as we covered in
Winter Skincare, leaving that stratum corneum to build up on its own is
no way to go for soft, smooth skin. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.precisionnutrition.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Acne-cascade.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://www.precisionnutrition.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Acne-cascade.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acne is complicated! Thanks, <a href="http://www.precisionnutrition.com/all-about-acne-nutrition" target="_blank">Precision Nutrition</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Myth #3</b> - <i>My acne is hormonal, so you can't help me.</i> Wrong! It
would make my life easier if this one were true, but the facts of acne
are that a) all acne is genetic, and b) all acne is hormonal. We
acne-prone individuals have oil glands that produce more sebum, and skin
cells that shed less effectively, so when we combine those genetic
factors with hormone changes and their tendency to thicken up the sebum
in that is produced (which further glues together the trying-to-escape
cells) AND thin the pore lining so that inflammation is almost
inevitable when those glommed-up skin cell plugs (also known as
comedones) rupture (which they will, if they are allowed to remain in
your skin). Acne care is not only possible but recommended with a
highly trained esthetician who knows the condition, its roots, and the
best treatment strategies to achieve and maintain clear skin.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<b>Myth #4</b> - <i>My hyperpigmentation will never clear up.</i> Not with that
attitude, it won't! But the truth of the matter is that most
hyperpigmentation cases that walk into my door are being treated
sporadically. They'll get the Retin-A and the Hydroquinone from the
dermatologist, and then they'll notice that their skin is dry and
flaking and stop using the Retin-A, and then they'll read in Allure that
the hydroquinone will give them cancer, and stop using that, and go
weeks and weeks, and then feel guilty and throw it all back onto their
face, experience more irritation and retinoid dermatitis, and repeat.
We have access to a wide array of retinoids and skin lighteners as
estheticians with advanced training, however our treatment strategy
typically differs from that of a dermatologist in that we favor a slow,
conservative approach. There's nothing wrong with the<br />
dermatologist's
ingredients or pacing, but we just find that this slower strategy works
well in our environment because typically we can see you more frequently
than you would be able to visit the derm. It is common for me to start
off with our mildest strength retinoid, allowing the retinoid
dermatitis to pass over the course of 3 weeks' time before adding a
pigment inhibitor. Although I do have hydroquinone-based pigment
inhibitors at my disposal, my preference is to slowly build into using a
wide array of alternative pigment inhibitors before making a decision
to introduce hydroquinone - simply because there is such a huge range of
pigment inhibitors that can be combined together and with a mild
retinoid to make a significant difference.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<b>Myth #5</b> - <i>I can't wear moisturizer because I am acne-prone.</i>
Wrong! Your oily skin is likely still <a href="http://theskinstudio.blogspot.com/2014/02/that-was-brrr-yall.html" target="_blank">dehydrated</a>, especially if you are
using acne meds topically or orally. In this case, it's important to
provide skin with a topical dose of </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhIDKWP5AS0YVZlhNGTjPW_4b1-u63RRtdycoz51SjOTap9jykzhr6qF0Ycp7rnf5Fnb9dDlsdFK0b-iw2EktHX5F9nA02NKAHjGDy7r5fIvsEUI2KoJ5sMQr0TPBo3oBDZi0Fb6P2HQ0/s1600/oscar-keys-60736-unsplash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1600" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhIDKWP5AS0YVZlhNGTjPW_4b1-u63RRtdycoz51SjOTap9jykzhr6qF0Ycp7rnf5Fnb9dDlsdFK0b-iw2EktHX5F9nA02NKAHjGDy7r5fIvsEUI2KoJ5sMQr0TPBo3oBDZi0Fb6P2HQ0/s320/oscar-keys-60736-unsplash.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
humectant moisturization that can be
readily absorbed to keep skin from becoming excessively tight, dry, or
irritated. Serums and light moisturizers with humectants like
hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatory ingredients like allantoin are just what the
esthetician ordered to complete your acne regimen and give you the smooth,
healthy skin you've been searching for.</div>
<br />
Questions? Comments? Ask the Aesthetician! Visit <a href="http://spaaeon.com/">SpaAeon.com</a> to learn more and schedule a visit. With your permission, I may even write a follow-up post that addresses your specific concerns.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-80348768336897109582014-02-18T05:56:00.000-08:002014-02-18T05:56:55.469-08:00That Was Brrr, Y'all!Finally, some tropical weather around here! Because lord knows we had enough of this:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89rf5Pq2nb2txvRH8ggX5bfawguUmmlwnS91tJvlEnG_TcVXlV33Qw3ojk6W8fKj8YNFzdfRrF-rv6zPcs7WBrbd1VpncmGGY4a7goyMSmpora07IKInBQDS5CdkdAFPU6oc_0eQC8wg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-28+at+9.24.46+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89rf5Pq2nb2txvRH8ggX5bfawguUmmlwnS91tJvlEnG_TcVXlV33Qw3ojk6W8fKj8YNFzdfRrF-rv6zPcs7WBrbd1VpncmGGY4a7goyMSmpora07IKInBQDS5CdkdAFPU6oc_0eQC8wg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-28+at+9.24.46+AM.png" height="195" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks, <a href="http://dogeweather.com/" target="_blank">doge</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
But now let's deconstruct that dry, itchy, prickly, tight skin that we are so happy to be done with.<br />
<br />
<i>Dryness </i>is a <b>skin type</b> of which the characteristics include lower than average skin oil production, small pores, the tendency towards fine lines and wrinkles, and occasional to frequent instances of tight, irritated, flaking, and peeling skin.<br />
<br />
<i>Dehydration</i> is a <b>skin condition</b> characterized by a lack of moisture in the skin and the resulting textural and observable characteristics similar to dryness, however dehydrated skin can occur in any skin <b>type. </b> Because the presence of adequate moisture within skin cells varies based on internal and external factors that may change, for example, diet, stress, medications, sleep, and water consumption, where as dry skin is a genetic disposition, the two have different indications for successful treatment to maintain the health, comfort, and beauty of the skin.<br />
<br />
In both cases, the Stratum corneum can look rough and flaky, like this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://c85c7a.medialib.glogster.com/media/30/30b52c3f97934a45675d550cb2d04f8fb1ad122aa7b215671b714d589827ef71/dry-skin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://c85c7a.medialib.glogster.com/media/30/30b52c3f97934a45675d550cb2d04f8fb1ad122aa7b215671b714d589827ef71/dry-skin.jpg" height="457" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Since dry type and dehydrated conditions happen so frequently together and share symptoms, they are often lumped together and treated mainly through <a href="http://www.intechopen.com/download/get/type/pdfs/id/29040" target="_blank">occlusion</a>, the ancient technology of placing a barrier ointment on the skin. Historically, these ointments included greasy fats like whale blubber, butter, and tree nut and seed butters. For the past approximately 150 years, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly" target="_blank">petrolatum</a> has been the standard for dermatological occlusion, allowing a complete seal to be formed around compromised skin, with no risk of breakdown or rancidification as with natural butters and oils.<br />
<br />
While petrolatum occlusion is still an important technique (see post-peel care) skincare science has come so far beyond this basic standard that it is now possible to address these concerns at a cellular level without the need to leave a greasy film on the skin day in and day out.<br />
<br />
Better yet, certain ingredients which were once used as single ingredient occlusive ointments are now being incorporated in much smaller doses into finished emulsions so that their <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transepidermal_water_loss" target="_blank">transepidermal water loss</a>-preventing characteristics can be utilized while still taking advantage of newer humectant technology and in conjunction with ingredients that address the integrity of the phospholipid cell bilayers.<br />
<br />
Dry skin questions? Call me at the studio! 504-717-4466, and HAPPY CARNIVAL!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-25283800022981190302014-01-31T06:22:00.000-08:002014-01-31T06:22:00.071-08:00Why Your Skin Needs Acid (Colorful!!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://butane.chem.uiuc.edu/pshapley/GenChem1/L24/litmuspaper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://butane.chem.uiuc.edu/pshapley/GenChem1/L24/litmuspaper.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
Have you spoken with me lately? Or ever? Have we talked about the benefits of acid to the face? Well, good thing you're reading this now! You see...<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">It is demonstrated that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0, as shown by measuring the biophysical parameters of barrier function, moisturization and scaling." (<a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489300" target="_blank">Lambers et al.</a>)</span></blockquote>
Now, to refresh us all on pH, or <i>potential hydrogen</i>:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBpa28OX3po2teMsuXfnxS9aM6B_jIERJC7ZitVB8_hgdZeD9-ojvAwNCvUel7sbOJ8WW6d9kBDibXOb5vfw4ZErTlEFtb3JQVsReVLCyh0G9e6aM2adYo-nQgmupG_AV5zkGUMMM_eE/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-24+at+11.44.27+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBpa28OX3po2teMsuXfnxS9aM6B_jIERJC7ZitVB8_hgdZeD9-ojvAwNCvUel7sbOJ8WW6d9kBDibXOb5vfw4ZErTlEFtb3JQVsReVLCyh0G9e6aM2adYo-nQgmupG_AV5zkGUMMM_eE/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-24+at+11.44.27+PM.png" height="244" width="640" /></a></div>
Thanks, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH#Definition_and_measurement" target="_blank">Wikipedia!</a> That little bit about pH being <i>logarithmic</i> means that the small differences between pH numbers represent huge (exponential) differences in the actual acidity or alkalinity of substances.<br />
<br />
Not only is skin in better shape when its pH is lower, but the study also estimates that skin's natural (not altered by soaps, which are typically highly alkaline) pH is even lower, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489300" target="_blank">putting it an estimated 4.7</a>.<br />
<br />
For perspective, these measures are pretty right:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://mrsermann.wikispaces.com/file/view/acids_and_bases.gif/228619742/acids_and_bases.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://mrsermann.wikispaces.com/file/view/acids_and_bases.gif/228619742/acids_and_bases.gif" height="227" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
But wait, you say, this study is all about skin's resident microflora. I don't want bugs on my skin!!! Ok at this point we've all seen these:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/P6n10sv63WM?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
and maybe even heard that <a href="http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/strange-but-true-humans-carry-more-bacterial-cells-than-human-ones/" target="_blank">our own bodies are made up of more bacterial cells than human cells</a>, so it may not come as such a shock that healthy skin is host to a microbiome of protective bacteria. <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489300" target="_blank">Lambers et al.</a> go on to say,<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">The effect of pH on adhesion of resident skin microflora was also assessed; an acid skin pH (4-4.5) keeps the resident bacterial flora attached to the skin, whereas an alkaline pH (8-9) promotes the dispersal from the skin.</span></blockquote>
So if for no other reason than to keep your skin's protective bacterial colonies intact, providing you with enhanced barrier function and better moisturization, acid acid acid!<br />
<br />
Of course we still want clean skin that can absorb the anti-aging ingredients we love so much. There's a simple way to get clean skin and still leave your skin at an appropriate pH for bacterial recolonization: toner. It's so simple I'm not going to talk about it much, except to say that all the toners we stock at the Skin Studio meet the requirement of bringing skin back down to its natural low pH, and some of them go even further.....<br />
<br />
Further, you ask? YES, this is the tingly part of the Acids post! With so many surface benefits occurring in the 4.5-5.5 pH range, why go lower? Well, there are kind of a LOT of studies showing that stronger acids applied professionally as chemical peels <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24447110" target="_blank">clear up acne</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24163531" target="_blank">reduce melasma about as well as laser treatment</a> (better, in my opinion, since there is no risk of excessive pigmentation as a side effect), <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20024875" target="_blank">remodel collagen and reduce wrinkles</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23992162" target="_blank">reduce dark under-eye circles</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9935087" target="_blank">acne vulgaris, oily skin, textural changes, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation</a>, are <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9935087" target="_blank">safe in darker skin tones</a>.<br />
<br />
Since I know you clicked through to each and every one of those links, I'm thinking you probably noticed the mention in several places of "preconditioning" the skin for peels. What does it mean? Easy... just like using toner regularly keeps the skin's pH low and the surface skin cells desquamated, your esthetician will probably also add in a retinoid, a barrier-maintenance product, and possibly a pigment inhibitor so that your peel treatment will progress evenly and predictably.<br />
<br />
Results? Why, healthier skin, a thicker dermis, thinner epidermis, better texture, reduction in blemishes and pigmented lesions, firmer, and more youthful skin. <br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-21382003860283474612014-01-29T15:30:00.000-08:002014-01-29T15:30:01.327-08:00Feed Your Face!<div>
So, you want gorgeous skin, but you're kind of a junk food junkie? Inflammatory conditions like
acne and rosacea are just that: inflammatory. <strike>Eat</strike> Learn to love to eat lots of anti-inflammatory foods, like salmon,
blueberries, and walnuts...</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfCBvWir_-bJCblUuoWG_4q922qtTklbgH7HvKPFOWgksLnQr1lA0CcLpIFaKjJbRcirYud9AyP-QggApLUz2qM8ITilsZXZlcUXI0TB6zsS9TdrExHc8tvdCZtHA6un8cBJy-qS7m4U/s1600/walnuts_canvas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfCBvWir_-bJCblUuoWG_4q922qtTklbgH7HvKPFOWgksLnQr1lA0CcLpIFaKjJbRcirYud9AyP-QggApLUz2qM8ITilsZXZlcUXI0TB6zsS9TdrExHc8tvdCZtHA6un8cBJy-qS7m4U/s1600/walnuts_canvas.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yummm... they look almost like french fries.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A little dark chocolate in moderation is OK
unless it is a trigger for you. Citrus fruits are often rosacea and
eczema triggers, so avoid those if that is the case. Probiotic foods
like plain yogurt (delicious with a little balsamic, some sea salt, and a
sprig of basil) and kombucha can strengthen symbiotic gut bacteria,
allowing your entire body to come down out of inflammatory mode. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.onsugar.com/files/ons1/307/3075777/28_2009/aab45b790a8f7cfa_50282661.preview.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media.onsugar.com/files/ons1/307/3075777/28_2009/aab45b790a8f7cfa_50282661.preview.JPG" height="200" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greek yogurt! Fun fact: contains loads of protein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Acne
sufferers must avoid excessive dietary iodides, which include
conventional meats and dairy (due to iodized salt licks), shellfish
(which accumulate iodine in the water), and seaweeds (iodine-rich).
They should substitute non-iodized sea salt as the amount of iodine
contained in the salt added to processed foods will suffice to prevent
iodine deficiency. Acne sufferers should also supplement zinc, as it
helps to repair epithelial tissue, and beta carotine (carrot juice is a
great source) which metabolizes into Vitamin A, the skin's critical
vitamin for proper epithelialization and desquamation of cells. </div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCUO95qJbcP4N4wq7HPJmZxNXF-RzZo8ODyG76B_oYMzIRbck4rNSe_6sh6Dzm_kQo6LUhI1ss5TNhyeJSRitL4_LOm2uqzgP1IV8m5nOLlUJN0rdWUSwobz62HYVYHjZqxeMkP0njdQ/s1600/draft_lens17689657module148557847photo_1298945407blueberries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCUO95qJbcP4N4wq7HPJmZxNXF-RzZo8ODyG76B_oYMzIRbck4rNSe_6sh6Dzm_kQo6LUhI1ss5TNhyeJSRitL4_LOm2uqzgP1IV8m5nOLlUJN0rdWUSwobz62HYVYHjZqxeMkP0njdQ/s1600/draft_lens17689657module148557847photo_1298945407blueberries.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See, not that hard!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Individuals struggling with dark spots
(hyperpigmentation) from any source should pay extra attention to
berries and bitter greens in their diet, even going so far as to
supplement liver-detox herbs like milk thistle and yellow dock root.
<br />
<br />
Astaxanthin is another important nutritional element for
hyperpigmentation as its antioxidant qualities may protect the skin from
its own pigment-producing factories (melanocytes). </div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.prostate.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Krill-Astaxanthin.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.prostate.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Krill-Astaxanthin.png" height="205" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Astaxanthin is from krill, y'all!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For menopausal or post-menopausal skin, several herbal
and natural hormonal remedies are available, including DHEA. Yams are
also considered to have potent estrogenic effects, and may be used to
lessen the severity of the decline of that hormone in menopause.</div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.herbalextractsplus.com/images/herbs/evening-primrose-bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.herbalextractsplus.com/images/herbs/evening-primrose-bsp.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And also pretty...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
Dry skin sufferers must consider both their
water intake and their intake of healthy fats. These will include foods
like avocado, fatty fish, and other sources of omega-3 fatty acids.
Evening Primrose oil can also have a very positive effect on dry skin. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.aajkikhabar.com/uploads/images/300x300/41927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.aajkikhabar.com/uploads/images/300x300/41927.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And fun :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lastly, everyone should be eating several
weekly servings of cooked asian mushrooms, as the anti-inflammatory,
anti-cancer, and free-radical scavenging properties of these foods
cannot be understated at any age. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
For more information, see Dr. Weil's <a href="http://www.drweil.com/ecs/images/anti-inflammatory-food-pyramid.jpg">Anti-Inflammatory Food Pyramid</a>. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-11207132186587944002014-01-26T12:00:00.000-08:002014-01-26T12:00:02.779-08:00The Single Most Important Piece of Skincare Advice I can Give You<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ush0CaQumO9GVn4O715c3EsWsuuu50YEFz1id3Ma6zwZ2digCt2eBetfQW5oYKg3etMVzjzVHgZM8N4cZQdLZqOog8_vGJrn88aV687QJMNLDETn9X1w-YSQIDyKkwolItEVuqkwyH4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-12+at+6.15.10+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ush0CaQumO9GVn4O715c3EsWsuuu50YEFz1id3Ma6zwZ2digCt2eBetfQW5oYKg3etMVzjzVHgZM8N4cZQdLZqOog8_vGJrn88aV687QJMNLDETn9X1w-YSQIDyKkwolItEVuqkwyH4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-12+at+6.15.10+PM.png" height="153" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
My #1 most important piece of skincare advice for everyone is to apply sunscreen BEFORE sun exposure. Just like you wouldn't lay down for an
x-ray without a lead apron, exposing your unprotected skin to the sun
means you are letting in radiating electromagnetic waves of a wavelength
suitable to cause irreparable damage to the DNA in the cells that are
struck. Now, those UV rays might not penetrate clear through your body
like x-rays, but they can certainly be tracked to a distance that
exceeds the depth of your skin. Want proof? Shine a broad-spectrum
penlight against your earlobe and watch as light rays make their way
through two complete layers of skin, plus fat and cartilage. <br />
<br />
With each exposure, more and more normal healthy cells are damaged.
Having exited the protective cell nucleus in order to complete
transcription into RNA, and subsequent translation resulting in the
synthesis of proteins to construct the daughter cell, the skin cells'
DNA is at its most vulnerable, meaning that cells irradiated with UV
light at this phase are the most likely to undergo mutations with the
direct result of generating faulty proteins for the next round of
cells. When this happens, the cellular abnormalities continue to be
passed from cell generation to cell generation. While there are some
repair processes, these too are weakened each time we subject our skin
cells to more DNA damage. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pharmaxchange.info/press/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Figure-1-Diagram-showing-how-physical-and-chemical-sunscreens-act.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://pharmaxchange.info/press/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Figure-1-Diagram-showing-how-physical-and-chemical-sunscreens-act.jpg" height="220" width="400" /></a></div>
Already out in the sun and you notice you're burning? It's time to
go inside! Sunscreen on top of sunburned skin should be #9 on <a href="http://huff.to/1iAwc92" target="_blank">this list</a>
of sunscreen mistakes, because chemical screens will continue to turn
additional light energy into heat energy, further burning your skin, and
mineral screens often contain natural oils which could prove irritating
for skin that is already burned. </div>
Finally, once you've had that contraband sun exposure, you'll
need to rely on a host of antioxidant ingredients to scavenge the free
radicals (not only free oxygen species but also free carbonyl and free
nitrogen species, all of which damage DNA) you've set in motion.
Vitamin C (in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid) is the gold standard for
antioxidant functioning, and can be found in our Vital C+ serum.
Magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate, a somewhat less irritating form, is in our
Good Behavior Mask, which can be blended with yogurt for an all day
poultice to address sunburned skin. Finally, cutting-edge antioxidants
include meristem cell extracts, found in HydroPeptide HydroStem, <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3a/Ubiquinone.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3a/Ubiquinone.png" height="181" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did you know that CoEnzyme Q-10 also goes by the name Ubiquinone? <br />
That's because it is, you guessed it, UBIQUITOUS in nature, and especially in eukaryotic cells (like yours).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
CoQ-10,
found in SkinScript's Ageless line, and low strength retinol, such as that contained in
our Easy A 0.5% Retinol. Anti-inflammatory ingredients like Allantoin,
and moisture-binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid, will also hasten
the recovery. The final winner is HydroPeptide Serum, which contains
both neuro- and cellular peptides, plus a hefty dose of EGF - epidermal
growth factor - which helps correct the reproduction of skin cells at
the basal layer.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-2757909041958241122014-01-21T07:30:00.000-08:002014-01-21T07:30:01.044-08:00Winter Skin: How and WhyIt seems like even though we have a temporary reprieve from the cold weather here in New Orleans, everyone and their momma has been asking me about how to keep skin at its healthiest in the winter.<br />
<br />
It's true that my appointment book is full of people concerned about the dry, uneven texture they are experiencing. On closer examination, I usually find that they have set aside their exfoliating home care treatments, and/or their retinoid treatments, under the misapprehension that exfoliating leads to dryness. In fact, by only using moisturizers and no exfoliants, these clients may be spending a lot of money to make their skin worse. How? It comes down to the skin:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/HumanSkinDiagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/HumanSkinDiagram.jpg" height="390" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Your skin, y'heard?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, is a brick-and-mortar type structure. The dead (or desquamated, meaning dried and flattened-out) skin cells known as keratinocytes make up the "bricks," and dehydrated extracellular matrix (the juice between skin cells - when it desquamates alongside the keratinocytes, it too dries out and becomes known as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desmosome">desmosomes</a>) is the "mortar." It is vitally important that this upper layer (did you know that stratum corneum actually means "horny layer" because it is a rough crust on top of the healthy dermal and epidermal cells) be exfoliated regularly to allow for the permeation of the full range of rejuvenating skincare ingredients. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/90/Hyaluronan.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/90/Hyaluronan.png" height="146" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyaluronan">Hyaluronan</a>!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Whether your moisturizer contains cell-protecting antioxidants, wrinkle-busting peptides, moisture-binding hyaluronic acid, or any of a number of anti-inflammatory botanical agents, its value is wasted when applied over the dead, horny layer at the surface of the skin.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Epidermal_layers.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Epidermal_layers.png" height="320" width="219" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Worse, several days, weeks, or months of moisturizing over dead skin will actually lead to a build-up of these keratinocytes, as the moisturizer ingredients gradually glue down more and more of the stratum corneum cells that are attempting to exfoliate naturally.<br />
<br />
Instead, be sure to maintain your exfoliation regimen all winter to get the most out of your cell rejuvenators. If an exfoliant is giving you irritation beyond like flaking, speak with your esthetician to determine the proper course of action for your skin this winter. We often switch from manual to sugar acid exfoliation or vice versa, go to a lower strength of retinol, or modify the technique that you are using to cleanse your skin. These changes will help you get the most for your skincare dollar, and make sure those precious corrective ingredients are getting deep into the skin where they belong!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-36643063011536753202014-01-12T08:36:00.001-08:002014-01-12T16:06:35.842-08:00Easy Tips for Great Skin<br />
I get asked a lot in social situations, "what should I be doing for my skin?" If you've spent thirty seconds around me, you know that I could talk forever, and while I would love for everyone's skincare routine to look a lot like mine (which notably includes clinical exfoliation once every 3 weeks to correspond with skin's 21-day cellular turnover rate), there are some true basics that I think everyone can start with:<br />
<br />
<ul><a href="http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/how-often-wash-washcloth-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/how-often-wash-washcloth-1.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>
<li>Deep cleansing, twice daily. My version of deep cleansing includes a primary milky or oil based cleanser, massaged into warm, wet skin for at least one minute, removed thoroughly with a wash cloth, followed by a corrective cleanser (normally a hydroxy acid or brightening cleanser - something with exfoliating benefits) worked into the skin for about a minute and a half before removing with the wash cloth. If you only try one of these tips, make it deep cleansing, and you'll see results you'll enjoy!</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>Lip protection. Most of us know by now how important it is for us to wear daily SPF all over our faces, necks, chests, ears, and hands (anywhere clothes don't cover, including sandal-ed feet in summer), but are you leaving your lips out of the picture? Skin cancer on the lips, when detected and treated early, is close to <a href="http://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/lip-cancer-not-uncommon">100% curable</a>, but it's easier and more pleasant all around to avoid that. Reapplication throughout the day is key.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://cdn6.triplepundit.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/greenwashing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn6.triplepundit.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/greenwashing.jpg" height="173" width="200" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Get savvy about natural products. While many products that claim to be "natural" or "organic" contain some very standard petroleum-based skincare ingredients (this is known as <i>greenwashing</i>), it's also true that some very complicated-sounding ingredients are surprisingly close to the form found in nature, such as tetrahydromethoxycurcumin, a wonderful anti-inflammatory antioxidant ingredient sourced from tumeric. Further, certain natural extracts are among the worst (often most irritating) ingredients for your skin, like the juices and oils of citrus fruits and many floral extracts (despite their popularity in "natural" skincare formulations), as well as ingredients known as counter-irritants that induce local skin inflammation. These work by damaging the barrier function of the skin (read: making your skin more likely to get sunburned, and more susceptible to microbial invasion from bacteria, molds, yeasts, fungi, and viruses) in order to pull away inflammatory lymphocytes and phagocytes that are responding to deeper inflammation, like muscle pain. These ingredients include camphor, menthol, peppermint, eucalyptus, and mint, and are also very popular in natural skincare products. Finally, there are ingredients that are completely lab-synthesized, the antithesis of the "natural skincare" movement if you will, that have been shown to have incredible benefits for the skin! Peptides - need I go further? Ok, how about glycosaminoglycans which mimic skin phospholipids to reinforce the integrity of skin as a barrier? Polysaccharides and lab-created humectant salts that bind moisture to the skin? Lastly, certain "synthetic" ingredients that have gotten a bad rap are actually sourced from healthy foods, for example, did you know that parabens are among the least irritating broad-spectrum preservatives, and are found naturally in raspberries?</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<ul><a href="http://mixedgreensblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/roasting-carrots2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://mixedgreensblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/roasting-carrots2.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a>
<li>Use anti-aging treatments NOW, before you need them. Retinoids (synthesized forms of Vitamin A) regulate the production of new cells at the basal layer, leading to healthier, rounder, more even skin cells that manifest as more vital, youthful skin. Large pores, lines and wrinkles, and dark spots are among the long list of cosmetic complaints that are ameliorated by adding retinoids to your skincare diet, not to mention that all those healthy, round, plump skin cells make it hard for cell mutations to gain a foothold and develop into precancerous lesions.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/20/dc/22/20dc222b2d1d2e443191bb927f41f701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/20/dc/22/20dc222b2d1d2e443191bb927f41f701.jpg" height="207" width="400" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Figure out whether your skin is <i>sensitive</i> or <i>sensitized</i>. A good esthetician whose training and protocols include management of inflammatory factors within the skin and whole body can help you with this. I've seen countless individuals who have been brainwashed by mainstream skincare companies into believing their skin is sensitive, when in reality, irritating ingredients, improper cleansing regiments, underexfoliation, and environmental factors have led to their having sensitized skin. Even those with truly sensitive skin are often plagued by these aggravators, resulting in sensitive skin that is sensitized. Proper exfoliation (we love scratch-free sonic exfoliation with the <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/#!store/ci4h">FOREO</a> for sensitized clients), gradual introduction of anti-aging ingredients, barrier protection, and an eye to reducing systemic irritation (I see you, sugar tooth!) make a world of difference, and allow people who thought they were doomed to the ravages of time to reap the benefits of anti-aging technology.</li>
</ul>
<br /><div>
Taking these steps in addition to seeing an esthetician for clinical skincare treatments means your skincare dollars are truly working for you.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-53951764080370481032013-11-22T06:21:00.000-08:002013-11-22T06:32:08.067-08:00Extremophile Science for Extremely Gorgeous Skin<br />
So, did you know that there are organisms - extremophiles - that thrive in conditions - whether physical or chemical - that would harm most life on Earth? For example, thermophiles are organisms that love heat, and include <i>Thermus thermophilus</i>, first found in a <a href="http://ijs.sgmjournals.org/content/24/1/102">Japanese thermal spa</a>, that produce the beautiful colors found within their insanely hot hydrothermal vent homes. These guys produce incredible high-temperature enzymes that protect the proteins in their little bacteria bodies from heat degradation, as well as incredibly potent antioxidants which protect their DNA from mutations caused by the thermal insult.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/Grand_prismatic_spring.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/Grand_prismatic_spring.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">See how pretty? Thanks, </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extremophile" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Pseudoalteromonas</i> is another genus of primordial bacteria that live in harsh marine environments, especially in and around Antarctica. Recap: freezing cold seawater with no light or air? Harsh. <br />
<br />
Patience, reader, I'm about to explain how they survive, and what their survival mechanisms mean for your skin. <br />
<br />
Basically, in order to protect themselves, these organisms secrete Extracellular Polymeric Substances (ECPS) - also known as Exopolysaccharides (EPS). These materials include both oligosaccharides and more complex glycoproteins (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycoproteins">proteins that contain oligosaccharide chains (glycans) covalently attached to polypeptide</a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycoproteins"> side-chains</a>). Both of these families of compounds are hugely important in the world of topical anti-aging, because as everyone knows, they act as <b>skin-identical components</b> in the extracellular matrix (hyaluronic acid and collagen, anyone?), meaning that they have the impressive capability to visibly <b>firm, hydrate, and maintain the elasticity of skin</b>. PLUS <i>Pseudoalteromonas</i> also make enzymes that are capable of <a href="http://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Pseudoalteromonas">breaking down the agar</a> in surrounding algae (<a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC106656/">agarases</a>) which means, YAY, more long sugars attached to short proteins that feed our skin!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTARrUm-dfxyCgcjv2RvN2zJVESQds6PWU0YAjLqa6AH_0EXvwpDyPHvCdtjaRN2KBya98gpAkWOll1rPK0RFBfbRd-1beGbeCk3OgW35vRcSI3fjBF5A88Bw142dr8bD0L67AP_8zKL1Q/s1600/powerlift.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTARrUm-dfxyCgcjv2RvN2zJVESQds6PWU0YAjLqa6AH_0EXvwpDyPHvCdtjaRN2KBya98gpAkWOll1rPK0RFBfbRd-1beGbeCk3OgW35vRcSI3fjBF5A88Bw142dr8bD0L67AP_8zKL1Q/s1600/powerlift.jpg" /></a><br />
You can get your daily dose of <i>Pseudoalteromonas</i> <a href="http://clients.mindbodyonline.com/ws.asp?studioId=13077&stype=43&prodid=289">here</a>, and be sure to look for upcoming <a href="http://dermapotion.com/">DermaPotion</a> products that will include Thermus thermophilus. Remember, I would <b>LOVE</b> to answer your skincare questions, so leave them in the comments section or text them to the Skin Studio at (504)717-4466.the Skin Studiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15666279219602452029noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-90096029705290733982013-07-21T06:27:00.001-07:002013-07-21T06:27:58.753-07:00Top 5 reasons why I love being your EstheticianGood Sunday morning everyone!<br />
<br />
I was talking to another esthetician online who has an antagonistic relationship with a coworker in her spa. She was asking for advice with the situation. I'm posting this because I know that, whether it is work life, daily routine, personal relationships, or family, we all have some area of our lives that we consider not-quite-there (yet). <br />
<br />
While some others in our esthetician group recommended that our colleague start looking for another job, my advice was a little different, and I think it pertains to any situation that brings us down.<br />
<br />
I posted that she could start by identifying her top 5 reasons for loving being an esthetician, and try to remain singly focused on those reasons for an entire work week, and see how that affects her experience. To this end, I decided to identify my own top 5 things I love about my work, and I thought I would share them with you:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Getting to know my awesome clients. Seriously, you guys impress me every day with your amazing projects, talents, interests, humorous anecdotes, and your huge hearts and kind spirits. Not everyone gets to spend their days learning so much about others' experiences, and I am grateful!</li>
<li>Being able to affect people's lives by clearing their acne, hyperpigmentation, texture issues, and other skin concerns that are standing in the way of relating wholeheartedly to others. 'Nuff said.</li>
<li>Well, you guys know me, so of course the tools, gadgets, and potions had to make the list! But seriously, being in such an inspiring, growing field is an incredible trip! </li>
<li>The experience of mastery - being able to study and learn new techniques, practice and polish my skills, and derive a sense of gratification and a job well done with each new technique I bring on board.</li>
<li>As an introvert, being able to close the door to the treatment room, put all the business concerns aside, and give my full focus and attention to one project (err, I mean human face) at a time.</li>
</ol>
<div>
I think I'm going to take my own advice this week and focus on my top 5 reasons as I go through each day to improve my experience just a little bit more. I'm lucky enough to love the team of incredible beauty professionals I work with, but I can't love every moment of every day (see: laundry, payroll, fixing broken things), and it is truly the experience of caring for people in the treatment room that makes it all worthwhile for me.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
What are your top 5? In work, love, life? What things do you enjoy so much that they can bring you out of a funk? What aspects of your life give you reason to push through the mundane aspects of your daily routine? Please share!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-9542690191310377282013-05-09T12:17:00.002-07:002013-05-09T12:19:38.776-07:00Ask An Esthetician : Men's Facial Care Edition<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Client K.S. writes to us with some skincare concerns. Esthetician Christine Giustra steps in to help!</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">K.S.: Hello Skin Studio Estheticians! I'm writing because I'm concerned about the blemishes my husband is experiencing in the beard area. He identifies them as ingrown hairs, however they look to me like clogged pores. He has tried changing his shaving procedure (razors, soaps), with no result. What can you recommend?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">C.G.: Hi K.S.! As for the irritated pores on his chin, I think his instinct to change aspects of how he shaves his face is a great first step! Since that is not ameliorating the situation, my next line of questioning will explore possibilities to find the root cause:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How long has he been having this problem?</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Does the onset of the problem correlate (give or take two to three weeks) with any changes in his life? These changes could include job changes, diet, travelling a lot, sleep patterns, stress level, personal relationships, or anything else that could negatively affect skin. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How often does he shave, and at what point in his shaving cycle (post shave or during the grow-out period or right before shaving) do you see the most inflammation?</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What other items are present in his skincare routine? For example, what soap or cleanser is he using? Is he using any active preparations like acne treatments or anti-aging formulas? Is he using sunscreen or moisturizer? If so, which ones?</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally, what would happen if he were to gently squeeze one of these irritated pores (with clean hands and q-tips and after a hot shower of course)? What, if anything, would come out? How would the skin look after a squeeze as compared to before squeezing?</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'd also like to find out why he switched away from the electric shaver, and ask if he would be willing to reconsider that change. Sometimes the very close shaves provided by wet shaving can just be too irritating for certain skin types. I'd like to rule out potentially irritating or clogging ingredients in his skincare regimen first, though.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally, making sure that he is shaving with fresh blades is important, and given the situation (irritation, pus, swelling), I would even pick up a jug of Barbicide or a similar wet disinfectant and soak his razor for 10-15 minutes (in diluted solution, as instructed) after each shave, to rule out bacterial or viral contamination on his skin from one day to the next.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hope these suggestions help! Keep me posted :)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">K.S.: The clogged pore issue began after my husband stopped using an electric razor, and has persisted for a couple of years. He shaves everyday in the morning and he just started cold wet shaving which seems to be helping. Within the first couple of hours after shaving he sees bumps starting and by the end of the day they are usually uncomfortable inflamed and usually filled with white pus... mostly not visible until after he showers and I squeeze a bit... followed by cleaning and alcohol. I usually see a hair in the center of the inflamed area and pull it before squeezing. This usually helps and allows the pore to clear. I'm including a photo of all the shaving and skincare products he has been using.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">C.G.: Hello again K.S.! Thanks for your patience. It did take me a little while to track down ingredient listings for the products your husband is using, and I think I've found the culprit! I noticed that his moisturizer contains several ingredients that I would not usually recommend for acne-prone skin. Perhaps he was using this moisturizer successfully years ago, but for whatever reason (stress, normal hormone fluctuations, reformulations, etc.), its current ingredients are no longer effective and appropriate for his skin. The particular ingredients that concern me are Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, a film-former and thickener, which comes unusually high on the list (normally emulsifiers are much further down the list), and an abundance of this ingredient would tend to thicken sebum and form a film, making it harder for skin oil to flow naturally out of the pores. Safflower oil, like sunflower oil, is particularly high in Omega-6 fatty acids, which are linked to inflammation internally, and can inflame acne topically. Avocado oil is simply too heavy for acne-prone skin. I would eliminate that moisturizer first thing, and gauge his moisture levels without it. If his skin gets too dry (redness, irritation, flaking), then I would recommend the <a href="http://clients.mindbodyonline.com/ws.asp?studioId=13077&stype=43&prodid=113">Vivant Allantoin Sedating and Hydrating Lotion</a> as a light acne-safe hydrator. You can see the Vivant homecare treatments when you are logged in to our web store. Very importantly, I don't see any SPF in his lineup, so I would also recommend the <a href="http://clients.mindbodyonline.com/ws.asp?studioId=13077&stype=43&prodid=116">DermaPotion HydraShield SPF 30+</a>, which is again formulated to be acne-safe. Best of luck with getting your husband cleared up, and I hope you'll keep me posted on the outcome!</span>the Skin Studiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15666279219602452029noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-41218768501383961712012-10-08T11:20:00.001-07:002013-03-13T12:25:57.842-07:00Skin Analysis: Why it MattersThere are so many benefits to getting a great facial treatment with a qualified aesthetician, but in order to see that clearer, smoother, brighter, firmer, and more even skin, the treatment must be suited to your skin's needs. <br />
<br />
Your first step is to choose a spa or clinic that specifies in their menu that there will be a skin analysis and consultation as part of your facial. This is important for two reasons: first, you will get a service that is tailored to your skin's needs while avoiding irritation, allergic reactions, or undesirable outcomes; second, establishments that do include skin analysis are more likely to have active, professional-grade products and equipment in their treatment rooms that can achieve visible results.<br />
<br />
While breakouts after facials are unusual when the aesthetician is trained in proper extraction techniques and when care is taken after extractions to use treatments which suppress acne bacteria (blue LED light, high frequency zapper, benzoyl peroxide, and sulfur are all options at your aesthetician's disposal), it's still a good idea to schedule your first facial at least 3-5 days in advance of any special event you have planned, if for no other reason than to avoid stressing about the possibility of a breakout.<br />
<br />
Once scheduled, collect all of your medications, supplements, skincare products, and cosmetics. Prepare for a detailed intake form and verbal confirmation of things like allergies (even to substances seemingly unrelated to skincare), autoimmune disorders, cosmetic procedures, seizure disorders, diabetes, hormonal factors, and eye conditions, as well as a discussion of your past experiences with skincare treatments and products. Each piece of the puzzle will give the aesthetician valuable insight into your skin's type and condition--all necessary to select the right products and treatments. Remember that certain medical conditions will rule out certain techniques (i.e., no microcurrent or salicylic acid for pregnant ladies, no waxing after recent treatment with corticosteroids) in ways you may not even think of, so it's important to arm your aesthetician with all the information she needs to ensure a safe treatment.<br />
<br />
On the day of your facial, arrive early with all the information in hand. You'll usually be offered tea or flavored water, and it's a good idea to be in a relaxed state of mind going into your facial, since you don't want to forget anything during the consultation. Be open and honest with your aesthetician (even if you fall asleep with makeup on sometimes!) and relax with confidence knowing that your skin will look great!<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-60557616743852686552011-11-18T10:28:00.000-08:002013-03-13T12:28:14.658-07:00Oops, I'm Peeling!Successful acne-clearing and anti-aging routines revolve around exfoliants, as we've discussed in previous posts <a href="http://theskinstudio.blogspot.com/2011/01/microdermabrasion-infusion-facial.html">here</a>, <a href="http://theskinstudio.blogspot.com/2010/05/post-peel-what-not-to-do.html">here</a>, and <a href="http://theskinstudio.blogspot.com/2008/09/to-scrub-or-not-to-scrub.html">here</a>. For the most part, exfoliating treatments are super-predictable, often down to the day and time of day that you are likely to start peeling. But what happens when your skin doesn't stick to a schedule? And what can you do to minimize peeling when you weren't expecting it?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigC3002ujnMbykayog0Av39ag7X-fjGhwHigWnxW0QpzFqOXD5J1CPQL2qLsTB4M_HR0p6Khteu2ZChQuvZEKkq_wJ5mPXlNKr5jyGBaFl4q6Hb_ZTBKiZ69m8BOY003-mLf-6zcXS4co/s1600/oops%252C+peely%2521.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigC3002ujnMbykayog0Av39ag7X-fjGhwHigWnxW0QpzFqOXD5J1CPQL2qLsTB4M_HR0p6Khteu2ZChQuvZEKkq_wJ5mPXlNKr5jyGBaFl4q6Hb_ZTBKiZ69m8BOY003-mLf-6zcXS4co/s320/oops%252C+peely%2521.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peeling on purpose, but you get the picture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lunchtime peels are not intended to produce visible peeling. The acids are light enough to break apart only the most superficial dead skin cells, allowing them to release cell by cell, without perceptible peeling. Occasionally, lunchtime peels (including microdermabrasion and dermaplaning) may produce some unexpected peeling, especially in the following cases:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Dry weather</li>
<li>Increased absorption from pretreatment</li>
<li>Vigorous exfoliation after treatment</li>
</ul>
<br />
Medium peels are designed to slough off the whole top layer of the skin, while sparing the pink, juicy "live" skin underneath. The exfoliated skin generally peels in small, flaky bits, which are easily removed with gentle cleansing and a washcloth. With medium peels, a few unusual responses sometimes observed are:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Darkening of the skin, especially over areas of hyperpigmentation</li>
<li>Starting to peel early, or continuing to peel beyond the usual five days </li>
</ul>
<br />
Intensive and double peels are intended to exfoliate the entire top layer of the skin, while allowing some acid to stimulate collagen production in the underlying dermis. Skin is expected to darken, harden, and peel in large sheets, like a sun or wind burn would(although blistering, scabbing, and oozing, which would indicate a medical-strength peel, are not expected). As with medium peels, skin sometimes peels outside of the usual range of five to seven days, which may be inconvenient for work or social reasons.<br />
<br />
In any of these cases, it's a great idea to <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/location">contact your aesthetician</a> if you think you may be experiencing something out of the ordinary. Generally, as long as you are at least two days post-treatment, it is safe to use an ointment. We like Vivant's Recovery Ointment, which blends aloe vera juice with the standard occlusive petrolatum. Other good options are <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Eucerin-BEIERSDORF199653-Aquaphor-Healing-Ointment/dp/B000NN7FXO">Aquaphor</a> and Elizabeth Arden's <a href="http://shop.elizabetharden.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2553433">Eight Hour Cream</a> (the original balm formula, not one of the spinoff cremes). When you find yourself peeling unexpectedly, avoid scrubbing with all your might! Scrubbing at this juncture will leave you with raw, red skin that is almost impossible to conceal. Instead, slather on one of these occlusive preparations. You are essentially gluing down the peely skin. Go as long as you can in the day with just balm on your skin before you need to apply makeup. Then, tissue down the occlusive ointment to the bare minimum needed to keep the peely skin glued down, and apply makeup with a minimum of friction (this is not the time to perfect your blending technique). If prior to applying makeup, the peely skin is reeeaally obvious under the ointment, then you have my permission to wipe your face gently, one time, with a warm washcloth, but proceed with caution--peely skin is always easier to cover than raw skin!<br />
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Hopefully these instructions will help in the event that you experience "bonus peeling." Do you have any post-peel photos? Share a link in the comments section below!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-58010011563294617752011-11-13T12:43:00.000-08:002013-03-13T12:31:48.579-07:00Hormonal Acne: Myth vs FactI am surprised how often I am asked, "Does your studio help people with hormonal acne?" My answer is a resounding "Yes!"<br />
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The question reflects a widely-held but scientifically inaccurate assumption that somehow "hormonal acne" is different, and that there is nothing topical or nutritional that can be done to clear it up.<br />
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In reality, all acne is influenced by hormones. Acne is the proliferation of comedones (blackheads or whiteheads) leading to pustules, papules, and sometimes cysts or nodules. Comedone formation is subject to many factors, among them sebum thickness. A predominance of androgens or male hormones thickens the sebum, while lower proportions of those hormones result in less viscous sebum. For some women who are both struggling with acne and who wish to be on oral contraceptives, simply using a pill that is higher in estrogen and lower in androgens* can go a long way towards clear skin. Likewise, certain hormonal birth control, especially those advertised as being low in estrogen**, can be responsible for thickening sebum enough to cause a problem for women who may not otherwise consider themselves acne-prone. If acne breakouts begin while taking these hormonal contraceptives, in my opinion it's worth a phone call to the prescriber to find out if there might be a more suitable choice of hormonal contraceptive.<br />
<br />
Despite what you may have heard about "hormonal acne," though, hormones are not the only factor. Furthermore, I often see clients who do not want to or cannot take hormonal medications for a variety of personal and medical reasons, and clients for whom the main androgenic hormones acting on the thickness of their sebum are likely to be <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_hormone">stress hormones</a> like adrenaline and cortisol. Unfortunately, I have observed instances in which dermatologists and gynecologists lump these people into a "hormonal acne" header and tell them they have to take birth control pills if they want their acne to clear up. I know from experience that this does not have to be true, so I think it's important to shrug off the notion of hormonal acne and work on the causes of acne that we can control. While hormones exert a very important influence on the thickness of the sebum, hormone levels are never the <i>whole</i> store behind an individual's acne. A comedone forms in a pore when there is a combination of factors present, of which thickened sebum is only one. The other factors in the development of a comedone (and progression from comedone to pustule or cyst) are:<br />
<ul>
<li>the rate at which stratum corneum (dead skin cell layer) cells detach and shed off the skin surface as a whole and the pore lining in particular (determined by genetic and nutritional factors but primarily topical skincare routine)</li>
<li>the presence of acne-causing bacteria (which can sometimes proliferate excessively as a result of overscrubbing) </li>
<li>the overall health of the skin (which can be compromised by exposure to comedogenic substances, UV light, oxidation from sources like cigarette smoke and pollution, and nutritional factors)</li>
</ul>
<div>
The reason that we don't treat "hormonal acne" differently from any other acne at the Skin Studio is that for our purposes, they aren't different! Our treatment approach does include some minor nutritional adjustments, but is primarily topical, and it's been our observation that even skin that is breaking out under an onslaught of hormonal aggravators (for example, when corticosteroids have been prescribed after an injury or for an episode of a chronic illness) can remain clear with pro exfoliating <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/face">treatments</a> and skincare.<br />
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*Some examples of birth control pills in this category are Yaz and Yasmin, Ortho TriCyclen, Diane35, and Desogen (Apri). <br />
**These include the NuvaRing, DepoProvera, Loestrin, and Estrostep FE.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-44012386888322833312011-11-10T15:35:00.001-08:002013-03-27T12:32:36.957-07:00The Skin Studio Now Offering Luxury Body Treatments!Services Include Mineral Wraps, Scrubs, Cellulite Treatments and Therapeutic Massage<br />
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The Skin Studio, located at 725 Joseph St at the corner of Magazine and Joseph in uptown New Orleans, is proud to announce the expansion of its body services menu. The same team of experts you have trusted to give you smooth, glowing skin now brings you deluxe spa body treatments in our beautiful Uptown loft. In the serenity of our indoor garden, you or a loved one can experience blissful relaxation while receiving New Orleans’ most customized care.<br />
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Having offered traditional and classic massage therapy in the past, the Skin Studio now offers a range of indulgent body treatments, such as the Body Glow with Relaxation Massage. With this treatment, clients choose one of three professionally formulated scrubs for gentle exfoliation, stimulation and custom results: the Tumeric Neem Glow (for brightening and clarifying); the Lavender Sugar Glow (for deluxe hydration); or the Coffee Salt Body Polish (for brightening and slimming). The treatment includes up to a full hour of relaxing therapeutic massage.<br />
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Results-oriented treatments include the exclusive Cellulite Buster with Ultrasonic and Infrared therapy, which targets problem areas with a special kneading massage technique and a cellulite-busting formulation of powerful active ingredients (including caffeine, guarana, carnatine and amino acids). These ingredients penetrate deep into the skin using ultrasonic technology, firming skin and reducing the appearance of cellulite; in addition, clients enjoy a relaxing scalp massage during infrared light therapy.<br />
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The Skin Studio’s licensed massage therapists are trained in a wide range of modalities, which are used in combination to best address client needs during each session. Massages can be upgraded to include deep tissue and hot stone therapy.<br />
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The Skin Studio’s services also include clinical skincare and cosmeceutical treatments, facials, waxing, lash and brow tinting, and more. For more information, or to schedule an appointment, please call or text 504-717-4466, or visit <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/#!reservations/c161y" target="_blank">www.skinstudioneworleans.com</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-75144581339126437062011-09-09T19:41:00.000-07:002013-03-13T12:33:51.803-07:00The Mother-in-law Request: Free Esthetician Advice?On a recent visit to my in-laws, my husband's mom had series of anti-aging questions which I think are best answered together. She asked:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>
"I have hereditary dark spots on my face. My dermatologist is willing to freeze them off when I go in for my cancer screenings, so I have had many of them on my cheeks and the sides of my face removed this way. I am nervous about asking him to remove one that is located on my upper lip because it will look like like I have a sore there. Is there any other option? Also, I have some broken capillaries. Could he do those with a laser, and if so, do you think he could get the dark spot with the laser, and would that prevent it getting scabby?" </blockquote>
I think this is a great line of questioning because it reflects the concerns many women have about the best approach for the health and beauty of their skin!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyxiw4EnbBAbc48OdKdG6ykyxyCnliCiXOBE4knAGSILO6IoR8Kn2Za3DPjsxD-weGaDtTCmyuz-kwDSE7x0YG5754O476tWagBa-DUAh45Z8rVkJiYNSDumzWERKrQ3LPf8XXLUDQ_9Y/s1600/photo+rejuvenation.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyxiw4EnbBAbc48OdKdG6ykyxyCnliCiXOBE4knAGSILO6IoR8Kn2Za3DPjsxD-weGaDtTCmyuz-kwDSE7x0YG5754O476tWagBa-DUAh45Z8rVkJiYNSDumzWERKrQ3LPf8XXLUDQ_9Y/s320/photo+rejuvenation.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I told my mother-in-law that she's thinking along the right lines by endeavoring to consolidate treatments and minimize downtime. Unfortunately, like the experience she has had with liquid nitrogen, the mechanism by which lasers lighten dark spots always results in the spot darkening, scabbing, and falling off (just like laser hair and tattoo removal, where the pigment molecules are broken apart by the therapeutic light, and must be expelled or reabsorbed), so a laser would not be the best solution to solving the pigment problem without scabbing.<br />
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Since my mother-in-law is using a retinoid but not a skin lightener, I recommended that she incorporate <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/#!store/ci4h">Vivant Bleaching Cream</a>, available at the Skin Studio. It is a blend of the active retinoid retinyl propionate and 2% hydroquinone, plus citric and kojic acids to provide additional brightening benefit, and aloe to prevent irritation from the active ingredients. Once skin is preconditioned with a retinoid/lightener/hydroxy acid regimen, great results are possible from peels. Preconditioned skin will peel and heal even better, with rapid healing time and more complete spot removal.<br />
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<br />
<br />
As for the broken capillaries, lasers can be a great option, but treatments come at a risk of burns or scars. The risk is minimized by having any treatment performed by someone who has substantial hours logged on the device they are using. In addition to traditional laser light (in which the light is collimated or focused into one tiny laser point), there are also intense pulsed light treatments, including the noninvasive <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/face">Radiancy Facial</a> at the Skin Studio, which offer a very low-risk means of reducing redness and homogenizing pigment, especially when you can schedule treatments twice a week for five weeks.<br />
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Finally, as mentioned in <a href="http://theskinstudio.blogspot.com/2011/08/melanocytes-everywhere-out-of-work.html">the previous post</a>, peptide technology can be a great adjunct to traditional means of lightening pigmentation, and can also stimulate skin repair during traditional bleaching treatments.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-56041699341284637572011-08-22T13:42:00.000-07:002013-03-13T12:34:42.638-07:00Lighten Up! An Up-to-the-Minute Primer on Managing HyperpigmentationHyperpigmentation is usually caused by a combination of hormones and sun exposure, but can also be a result of certain types of trauma to the skin, including acne breakouts after healing. Any of these factors can cause the skin to overproduce melanin (skin pigment) in an effort to protect the skin from further damage. If you’re interested in speeding up the rate that your skin pigmentation fades, it’s first helpful to understand the three different types of skin-lightening ingredients. This will help you make a decision about which type or types of lighteners will work best with your skin pigmentation and general health.<br />
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The first type of lightener is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroquinone">hydroquinone</a>-based. Hydroquinone-based lighteners also include certain ingredients that are chemically analogous to hydroquinone, such as arbutin (sourced from uva ursi, or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearberry">bearberry</a>) and kojic acid (a fermentation byproduct of certain mushrooms). All of these ingredients have the same mechanism of action on the cellular level. Hydroquinone and its analogs are the same shape of molecule as an amino acid called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrosine#Precursor_to_pigments">tyrosine</a>, which is processed by an enzyme called tyrosinase. Tyrosine is part of any normal diet, and is found in foods like soy protein, seaweed, and egg whites, to name a few. When tyrosinase breaks down tyrosine, the body uses tyrosine to make melanin, or skin pigment. By fitting into tyrosine receptors, hydroquinone functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor, preventing the body from using tyrosine to make melanin, and effectively shutting down the pigment factories found within the skin’s basal layer.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.ibiblio.org/virtualcell/textbook/chapter3/movies/pro4.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ibiblio.org/virtualcell/textbook/chapter3/movies/pro4.gif" /></a></div>
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This image shows a protein fitting into a receptor, much as tyrosine fits into its receptor. Notice how the receptor releases a chemical when the protein locks into place: by replacing tyrosine with hydroquinone, we prohibit the receptor from releasing melanin. This receptor blockage is currently the only step of melanin production for which we have found such an effective process of inhibition.<br />
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The second type of lightener is exfoliant-based. Exfoliant-based lightening only works if A) you have first removed whatever is causing your excess pigmentation (for example, if you are no longer experiencing hormone fluctuation, UV-induced cellular mutations, or acne or other inflammatory skin conditions that may have been contributing to the production of excess pigment); or B) you have already shut down your pigment factories through the use of hydroquinone or another tyrosinase inhibitor. The reason this prerequisite is necessary is because exfoliants’ main action is to break down skin cells, thereby hastening the production of healthy new cells. When the skin cell turnover is accelerated through exfoliation without the interference of excess pigment-causing factors, the resulting cells contain only the normal amount of pigment: fresh, new skin! <br />
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[NB: While the primary benefit of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retinoids">retinoids</a> to the skin is NOT their exfoliant properties, for the purpose of this article, you should understand retinoids to be included in the exfoliant category as supporters of skin lightening.]<br />
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Finally, there is also a third type of lightener. Peptide-based lighteners rely on the interaction of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peptides">peptides</a>, which are small chains of amino acids (like proteins), with cells in the skin’s deep tissue layers. Several peptides that have only recently been synthesized in labs have been shown to have remarkable skin lightening properties. In particular, palmitoyl oligopeptide-68 seems to derive its efficacy from its ability to both prevent the synthesis of melanin and stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, which aid in cell repair and reduce inflammation. One of palmitoyl oligopeptide-68’s most important functions is to mimic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transforming_growth_factor_beta">TGF-Beta </a>(Transforming Growth Factor Beta) proteins. These proteins are vital to cell health throughout the body, as they are responsible for regulating crucial cell activities (like telling cells when to die so that they don’t become cancerous)! This is where the mad science comes in: though scientists know TGF-Beta’s basic functions, they haven’t yet discovered all of its cellular pathways. So palmitoyl oligopeptide-68 was successfully synthesized to mimic TGF-Beta, but we don’t know exactly how it works!<br />
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Regardless of the mystery, the benefits offered by a skin lightener that can both inhibit tyrosinase, as hydroquinone-based lighteners do, and stimulate cell turnover, as exfoliant-based lighteners do, cannot be denied. By using this dual-function approach to skin lightening, we can attain results previously only available through the use of both a hydroquinone and an exfoliant-based lightener, with less irritation and within a much shorter time period. Peptide-based lighteners are also a great solution for those who cannot use hydroquinone-based lighteners because of pregnancy or nursing concerns. Certain persistent pigmentation will still require the use of hydroquinone; likewise, on some skin, embedded pigmentation will linger unless treated with alpha hydroxy acids, usually in the form of <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/?page_id=188">peels</a>. Nonetheless, we consider this an incredible new low-impact addition to our skin-lightening arsenal, and one that many clients, especially those who haven’t tolerated other lighteners in the past, may wish to explore.<br />
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Don't forget to tell us which lightener you'd like to try in the comments for a chance to win a bottle! Winners will be notified by email on Friday, August 26, 2011.<br />
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As always, you can text or call the Skin Studio with any questions or concerns at 504-717-4466; or, click <a href="http://www.skinstudioneworleans.com/?page_id=32">here</a> to schedule your next appointment!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-59806368501091396012011-01-21T05:46:00.000-08:002013-03-13T12:42:29.038-07:00Clinical Infusion Facial, Revisited(Click <a href="http://clients.mindbodyonline.com/ws.asp?studioid=13077&stype=41&prodid=65">here</a> for an appointment)!<br />
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This morning I thought I would take a few minutes to reflect on my most popular skincare treatment, and why I think it's one of the best ways to whip your skin into shape!<br />
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For those of you who haven't been to the studio, the Clinical Infusion Facial includes:<br />
<ul>
<li>Three-step deep cleanse</li>
<li>Comprehensive skin analysis</li>
<li><a href="http://www.ascpskincare.com/media/consumer_education_microdermabrasion.php">Microdermabrasion</a>, dermaplaning, or light to medium chemical peel<br />
</li>
<li>Deep pore extractions</li>
<li>Germicidal high frequency<br />
</li>
<li>LED phototherapy</li>
<li>Custom mask treatment<br />
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<li>Glycolic arm and hand treatment<br />
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<li>Infusion of cosmeceuticals<br />
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<li>Microcurrent facelift</li>
<li>Active serum, hydration and SPF </li>
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Since my clients' skin concerns range from acne to pigmentation, wrinkles, texture concerns, redness and sensitivity, it's important that every treatment is customized, and that's exactly what happens in the Clinical Infusion Facial.<br />
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In this post, I'll be focusing on a versatile exfoliation method that works for many clients: microdermabrasion! Most of us are somewhat underexfoliated, and in addition to the fibroblast-stimulating and pore-minimizing benefits of microdermabrasion, it's also the best and fastest way I know to ensure maximum absorption of the cosmeceutical ingredients selected for each skin type. Improved absorption continues for weeks after treatment, providing maximum results from home care with active antioxidants, retinoids, lighteners, peptides, growth factors, and humectants.<br />
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The great thing about the Clinical Infusion Facial is that the steps performed after the exfoliation are made all the more potent. Red/infrared combination LED treatment light penetrates deeper into the dermis to promote collagen and extracellular matrix production; ultrasonic and microcurrent infusion techniques reach more living cells to improve firmness and brightness, and serums absorb and are processed in layers of the skin that can't be reached without the microdermabrasion.<br />
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Best of all, the Clinical Infusion Facial is a true no-downtime treatment. While some skin types experience pink skin lasting 2-4 hours after the treatment, it can almost always be performed on the morning of a big event. After 4 hours, makeup can be worn (see the Skin Studio's favorite makeup artists at <a href="http://www.katiemalonemakeup.com/">Kate Malone Makeup Studio</a>), and will look better than ever over a fresh canvas of refined skin and custom cosmeceutical actives.<br />
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The fact that it's a relaxing, brightening way to spend 75 minutes is the icing on the cake!<br />
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Click <a href="http://clients.mindbodyonline.com/ws.asp?studioid=13077&stype=41&prodid=65">here</a> to schedule your treatment!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-34262339501782299952010-07-04T16:37:00.001-07:002010-07-04T16:37:01.546-07:00So excited to go to work in the beautiful new studio tomorrow morning!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-17669090981737062342010-05-03T05:17:00.000-07:002013-03-13T12:42:10.858-07:00Post Peel: What Not To Do<div style="text-align: left;">
At the Skin Studio, each peel, and the post-care regimen that goes with it, is customized. The post-care strategies that I recommend depend on the skin's indications and the peel performed. There are still a few common tempting but counterproductive home remedies that may occur to someone experiencing rough scaly skin right after a peel...here are a few of the culprits, and the reasons why they won't help your skin after a peel (and may even compromise the results you are trying to achieve).</div>
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As you read, keep in mind that the process of chemical peeling, whether a light single-acid lunchtime peel, or a blended-acid intensive peel, is intended to break apart the bonds between the dead, flattened cells in the Stratum corneum. Bonds broken, the cells can shed rapidly, which in turn stimulates the proliferation of new, healthier cells which are pushed up from the Stratum basale, or basal layer. During that shedding process, the remaining Stratum corneum cells (located immediately under the layer affected by the peel) <i>become</i> the new surface layer, complete with a fresh new protective <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acid_mantle">acid mantle</a>.</div>
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/20/Skinlayers.png"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/20/Skinlayers.png" style="cursor: pointer; height: 329px; width: 332px;" /></a></div>
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The specific peeling solution and application technique all impact how many layers of corneocytes (flattened Stratum corneum cells) are denatured. The more intense the peel, the more layers are impacted, the more visible shedding and peeling, the more fresh new skin is exposed, the more important it is to follow your post-care regimen precisely. </div>
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<b><br />Water</b></div>
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While it seems like it would be refreshing, relieve the tightness, and hydrate the skin, using water (of any temperature*) topically on your skin after a peel is a no-no. Water applied topically does not have the power to hydrate skin cells. To the contrary, applying water dilutes and even rinses away the protective lipids and acid mantle that your skin (especially post-peel) is struggling to maintain. The result is increased evaporation of the skin's precious moisture stores--a process also know as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transepidermal_water_loss">Transepidermal Water Loss</a>. Another reason to avoid water immediately post-peel is that by temporarily softening and swelling the dead cells, it may encourage those cells to release prematurely from the healthy skin below. In addition to the risk of scarring, this means that the new skin is exposed before it is ready to the environment and all its aggressors. Skin that is peeled back prematurely after a chemical peel usually appears red and raw, sometimes oozy, and will often display rashy or pimple-like irregularities, often defeating the purpose of using a chemical peel to uncover fresh healthy skin. </div>
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<b>Tea bags, cucumbers, aloe gel</b></div>
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See: Water. Again, as soothing as certain non-skincare items may <i>seem</i>, with a chemical peel we are trying to achieve a nice, even leveling of the Stratum corneum, and disrupting the skin's protective mantle just as it is forming runs contrary to that goal.</div>
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<b><br />Coconut, Vitamin E, and other single-ingredient oil products<br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">I usually hear this one from my fellow health-conscious individuals. Like water, while many of these healthy oils will do wonders for skin (and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epithelial_tissue">epithelial tissue</a> in general) when taken internally, the benefit simply does not extend to topical application. The reason for this is that single-ingredient oils simply do not have the chemical profile to <i>hydrate</i> the skin in any way. Effective <a href="http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/moisturizers/SN00042">moisturizers</a> are a blend of emollients and humectants. While certain oils make great emollients that are capable of softening, occluding, and lubricating skin, the absence of humectants--ingredients that actually bind moisture and trap it in skin tissues--means your skin will actually feel drier and tighter once your layer of oil has worn off. </span></b></div>
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<b>Active topicals</b></div>
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After the blowtorch-like heat of a chemical peel, most of my clients are ready and willing to follow my instructions regarding discontinuing their active topicals such as retinoids, hydroxy acids, vitamin C and other antioxidants, lighteners, and botanical correctives. Waiting the prescribed time period before resuming these important components of the home care routine ensures that skin won't be shocked into a painful, itchy histamine response. Need I say more?</div>
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Chemical peeling is the best and least invasive way to brighten skin, soften fine lines, diminish discoloration, even texture, clear impacted pores, and enhance effectiveness of topical home care. For all those impressive results, it's no wonder that a little caution must be exercised. Following your customized post-peel instructions to the letter, taking special care not to introduce anything additional into the mix (no matter how tempting!), and protecting your fresh new skin from the sun will yield the most radiant results!</div>
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*even ice, which is an important part of an acne regimen, should be avoided in the days after a peel.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9089253611895453431.post-44884201658660856322010-02-03T04:30:00.000-08:002013-03-13T12:49:59.671-07:00Attainable Beauty?<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;">It seems like every so often, a new set of soul-crushing celebrity photo retouching before-and-afters gets released to the general public to the shock and dismay of those of us clinging to hope that our diet, exercise, and beauty care efforts may one day yield the plastic-y perfection we see on magazine pages.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;">We despair and wonder, as Nicki Zevola of <a href="http://www.futurederm.com/2010/02/02/unattainable-beauty-the-decades-most-egregrious-retouching-scandals-newsweek-mot/">FutureDerm.com</a> lame<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">nts, "</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">If Hollywood celebrities, blessed with access to the best nutritionists, chefs, trainers, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and stylists, cannot even look as good as themselves in photos, then how can we expect to do so?" </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">While I think most would agree that some of the ret</span>ouches in question are seriously over-the-top, I still don't think of it as a reason for regular people like us to stop trying to be as beautiful as we can. In fact, availing ourselves of all the wonderful beauty-enhancing technology that has become available in the last several decades can have a number of tangible benefits. In fact, according to <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2006/01/060124223317.htm">this article</a> from Science Daily, "</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">physically attractive people have advantages that unattractive people do not," and the scope of these advantages ranges from the workplace to public and private life. </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Still need a good reason to hold fast to your beauty routine? Most of us don't look like airbrushed celebrities, but looking as good as we can is important. The the impact on self-confidence of appearing as attractive as possible is undeniable. Have any doubts? Just look at the elevated rates of depression, social withdrawal, and unemployment among <a href="http://www.skincarephysicians.com/acnenet/socimpct.html">acne sufferers</a>.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">French Elle did a "<a href="http://www.elle.fr/elle/Beaute/Beaute-des-stars/News/Exclusif-ELLE-Les-stars-sans-fards/(gid)/870903">Stars Sans Fards</a>" spread last April where Eva Herzigova, Monica Bellucci, Sophie Marceau, Charlotte Rampling and several others posed without makeup, pro hairstyling, airbrushing or even wardrobing (they look like they just rolled out of bed)...and they are astonishingly beautiful! Of course<span style="font-size: medium;">,</span> the lighting is fabulous and they probably took hundreds of pictures to get the final cuts, but to me, part of the beauty of the spread is its testament to the miracles of modern skin technology. No, they may not have had makeup on, but I doubt that any of those stars went to bed the night before that shoot without applying top-notch corrective skincare!</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8AEVkueZUctjMziR8AwtbdAlk3x2BmOODi8MkEzkfjo06NqFcU7a8P_Bv7G43gfwfUpi_4x1BauT_b2Bjllt93wuR0pJwDgCaF_z9aZZAhyphenhyphenWVdmABWHJQtGS0m0gveqDzlSP6DCoI9915/s400/stars+sans+fards1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8AEVkueZUctjMziR8AwtbdAlk3x2BmOODi8MkEzkfjo06NqFcU7a8P_Bv7G43gfwfUpi_4x1BauT_b2Bjllt93wuR0pJwDgCaF_z9aZZAhyphenhyphenWVdmABWHJQtGS0m0gveqDzlSP6DCoI9915/s400/stars+sans+fards1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; width: 321px;" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">As an <span style="font-size: medium;">ae</span>sthetician, my ears prick up when people point out how unrealistic and unattainable celebrity beauty is--not because I disagree, but because I have seen how much of a psychological, social, and yes, sometimes even professional boost people get by optimizing their own beauty through truly accessible means. Discouragement that you won't wind up looking like Madonna (err, the photo-retouched Madonna, that is) is not a good reason to turn away from a well-selected and effective skincare routine. Just like exercising and eating well, a healthy skin routine is a no-brainer for looking and feeling better. Nope, one microdermabrasion session is not going to turn you into Barbie, but a sustained, consistent routine of proven skin care technology is an investment that I have seen pay off in all areas of life.</span></span></div>
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